The city of Lisbon won a World Travel Award in 2019 as Europe’s Best City Break Destination, so I’ve been curious to visit and explore what the city is all about. Over the last few years there’s been a rise of trendy shops, cafés, coworking spaces and rooftop bars, turning once dilapidated spaces into lively, vibrant social venues. However, Lisbon somehow manages to balance the old and new, the vintage and the modern. For history lovers, Lisbon makes for a fascinating trip, as it’s the second oldest capital city in Europe, next to Athens. You can easily get lost in its untouched hilltop neighbourhoods of Alfama, Castelo and Cathedral districts, with labyrinth like streets, fortified ramparts, castles and walls that have been preserved for centuries. In addition, there are colourful houses and beautiful tiles everywhere you turn.

Not only is Lisbon one of the oldest cities, but it’s also one of the sunniest, enjoying approximately 300 days of sunshine annually. When you ask both locals and tourists about what they find special about Lisbon, often they have this answer in common – the light. It’s the first thing you’ll notice as soon as you land in the city, that dazzling bright light that reflects across the pastel-hued walls, the white limestone pavements, the colourful tiles and the shimmering blue Tagus river, which further reflects light inland.

How would a city break work with a 2.5 year old daughter Islay in tow I wondered?  Friends had said Lisbon was one of the best places to visit in Europe with toddlers. And they were right - it is an affordable, safe and family-friendly city and here are some of the highlights of our 5 day trip in August 2022.  

Taking a tram

The trams make up part of the public transport system in the city, so you can easily use them to get around – buy a pass or ticket for each trip, such as for your journey from Lisbon to Belem. However the 28 tram Lisbon route is a little different, acting more like a tour route with the added style of small traditional yellow trams. Heading from Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique, it passes through the popular tourist districts of Graca, Alfama, Baixa and Estrela along the way and it’s a fantastic way to see Lisbon and soak up the atmosphere. We loved it!

It is very popular though, so do expect to queue if you want a seat (or to be squished into standing if not). It’s also well known, sadly, as a haunt of pickpockets so keep an eye on your belongings. If you buy a ticket on board, it’ll also cost a lot more than picking it up in advance at a metro station – a day pass costs approximately double a single ticket bought on board, and you can use that for unlimited journeys during 24 hours and with plenty of things to do in Lisbon with kids, it’s definitely one to keep on your family travel radar.

Afternoon in the Aquarium

With more than 8,000 sea creatures and 500 different species, Lisbon’s aquarium – the Oceanario Lisboa – is one of the most incredible and largest in Europe, and ideal if you are visiting Lisbon with kids and to escape the midday heat. As you approach the impressive building you realise that the only way to get in is through a footbridge, and as you walk over the water, you get the impression that you are boarding a ship.

The aquarium sits over two floors, with an enormous central 5-million litre tank, that is the home to a variety of marine creatures including black tip sharks, sting-rays and  huge ocean sunfish. Then get ready for jungle-action on a rainforest tour, where kids can walk over a wooden bridge and explore a variety of exotic trees and fish. The perfect tie-in with the Oceanário? The cable car ride is located just behind the aquarium (kids under 4 go free) and is a really great value activity to do with little ones and very exciting for them albeit scary for me! The place can get super busy, so buy tickets online before you go. You can just go straight in and show your printed ticket or the PDF on your phone.

Sand, sea and sandcastles

Lisbon is located on the Iberian-Atlantic coast. This means sandy beaches are just a short ride away from the city. Once you’re in the main terminal in Cais do Sodré, the railway trains will take you along the shimmering Oeiras, Estoril & Cascais coast, with plenty of popular and lesser known beaches to pick from. Either you’re into lounging on the beach or if you want more fun activities then the beaches of such Carcavelos, Cascais and Guincho offer sailing, kayaking, surfing. Furthermore, across the bridge, is the 30km pristine beaches of Costa da Caparica, which is a mere 20-minute Uber ride away and where we spent a lovely afternoon in the water and building sandcastles.

The Fado Museum (one for the adults when the little one naps)

The Museu do Fado is one of the must-visit places in the city. Besides representing one of the region’s most important cultural legacies, it also has a restaurant and a themed shop where you can spend some time catching the spirit of saudade (nostalgia). Totally devoted to fado and the guitar, it has a permanent exhibition and also temporary ones, alongside a document centre and an auditorium with regular events and a very interesting programme. With songs by the greatest Portuguese artists demonstrating an art form that Portugal gave to the world, the museum’s artistic quality will surprise you and we loved listening to the haunting melodies whilst Islay slept in her pushchair.

Tasty food and wonderful wine

The Portuguese love eating and drinking and their culture is so associated with food that every celebration means an opportunity to celebrate life with eating, drinking and being merry. There’s a great variety of restaurants in Lisbon, offering delightful dishes of seafood, grilled or stewed meat, pickled vegetables and rustic concoctions. Expect bacalhau (codfish), mouth-watering sausages and cheeses, paired with excellent wines from Lisboa or Douro regions. Lisbon folk certainly know how to live well.

 Visiting Lisbon was one of the most enjoyable city breaks we have had -  beautiful parks and playgrounds, sunny beaches, trams and ferries to ride, scrumptious food, and interesting streets and alleys to explore. Lisbon is truly one of the best places to visit in Europe with your little one.

Zoe and her family travelled in August 2022 to Lisbon on a 5 day city break.

After two years or travel restrictions we were definitely craving getting away to somewhere a little bit more exotic - with a drastically different landscape, culture and flavours. We have found this and more during our road trip in Mexico.

We knew that the coast wouldn’t provide an authentic experience we were after so our plan for two weeks was a multi centre holiday visiting four different states with two domestic flights in between. 

Sumidero Canyon in Chiapas by Girl in Red Hat on Unsplash

We started our adventure at Cancun airport where we picked up a car for 10 days. Roads in the Yucatan peninsula were generally fantastic, with a choice of paid motorways and paved side roads. 

To get over jet lag we made a decision to treat ourselves to some beach time and luxury boutique hotels. First stop was Playa Del Carmen and the very unique Palmaia, The House of Aia - a secluded sanctuary with oceanfront swim up suites, jungle spa and gourmet restaurants overseen by chefs who have trained in Michelin starred restaurants from around the globe.

We loved that rooms were very modern with state of the art amenities yet outside we were greeted by nature in all its glory - wildlife, abundant greenery and turquoise sea.

Beach at the Palmaia House of Aia

The uniqueness of the resort lies in the fact that it includes several sessions/rituals per day with their Architects of Life. You get healed not only physically with nutritious food and indulgent treatments in their jungle SPA but also on a mental and spiritual level with the activities like Tai Chi, Soul Reading, Pranayama breathing and meditation.

Highly recommended for those busy bees and city mice!

Colourful streets of San Cristobal De Las Casas by Guido Nh on Unsplash

Our second eco boutique resort was beautiful Jashita. With only 30 rooms this gem has an ideal location for exploring Tulum which has become very popular in the recent years. Surrounded by peace and quiet of the Soliman Bay Jashita is only 10-15 min drive from Tulum with its nightlife and trendy restaurants. Speaking of restaurants, the best food we had on our trip was at the Jashita’s famous restaurant Pandano. Best pastas outside of Italy courtesy of the hotels’s Italian owners! But for those craving local food, there is a selection of Mexican dishes also. 

Pool area at the Jashita

We loved our spacious suite and really appreciated our huge terrace with a plunge pool! The hotel never feels busy - even at full occupancy there is plenty of space around its three pools and the beach!

Never able to stay in one place, we then continued on to the less developed island of Holbox famous for its sand banks and opportunity to swim with manta rays and whale sharks as well as to the more known island of Cozumel - part the second largest coral reef system in the world after the Great Barrier reef in Australia and apparently favourite place for diving of Jacques Yves Cousteau himself!

Cozumel by Fernando Jorge on Unsplash

What holiday to the Yucatan peninsula goes without visiting the legendary Chichen Itza - one of the 7 New Wonders of the World? I highly recommend taking a local guide as otherwise we would have missed some very special sound effects this place is capable of as well as learning fascinating facts about the place. Although Chichen Itza without a doubt is the most known Mayan monument in Mexico, it is not the largest - don’t be afraid to go off the beaten track and explore! 

Chichen Itza by Flip Gielda on Unsplash

After 9 nights it was time to bid good bye to this part of Mexico as we boarded a flight to Chiapas - called by some the most beautiful state of Mexico! Nature is very different here - resembling of Europe even in some places with its mountains and lakes. We even had to put some layers on as temperatures there were noticeably lower than on the coast. Bordering on Guatemala, Chiapas boasts of waterfalls, gorges, lakes and authentic colonial towns with indigenous population. We even took an opportunity to cross into Guatemala for a short wander around - there is no need for passport control and one can cross without a hustle on foot!

Cascada El Chiflon in Chiapas

The highlights of our stay were our trips to Cascada El Chifflon and taking a boat down the river at Sumidero Canyon. Saying that visiting the very colourful town of San Cristóbal de Las Casas was undeniably another one. There are very few places in the world left that managed to retain the level of authenticity that Chiapas offers. We only had three nights in Chiapas and didn’t have a chance to explore all its wonders, including Mayan ruins of Palenque that are far less visited than Chichen Itza.

Lakes of Chiapas

As we were flying back from Mexico City, our next domestic flight was to the capital of the country. Mexico City is the largest Spanish speaking city in the world and the scale of it really is impressive. I was surprised to find out, that it is in the second place in the world by the number of museums after London! We have certainly visited some ourselves - I can particularly recommend Museo Nacional de Antropología housing a large collection of artefacts from various periods of Mexican history. As I have been the biggest fan of Frida Kahlo for years, visiting her Blue House was a must for me. Do book in advance - you simply won’t get in if you show up on the day.

Personal items of Frida Kahlo

And finally if you are into fine art Palacio de Bellas Artes is the place to visit for its fine murals by the likes of Diego Riviera. Also, who knew that my first paintings by Salvador Dali will be seen in Mexico City and not in Spain! 

Mexico City is also a gateway to the ancient city of Tenochtitlan famous for its large pyramids of the sun and the moon. We were supposed to have a hot air balloon flight over this incredible site but sadly it got cancelled due to the weather. Speaking of the weather, Mexico City requires a completely different wardrobe choice than the coast - do bear this in mind if visiting both on one trip. 

And the last but not the least, Mexico City is the place to enjoy food - from unbelievably affordable street food stalls to the restaurants sitting among the top eateries in the world.

This for sure was a trip to remember! And we did not even cover half of the country! I encourage you to explore Mexico - do not just stay in an all-inclusive hotel.

And if you need us to help you planning your trip - do get in touch!

The Maldives is made up of 1192 islands that stretch over 298 square kilometres. However, the country’s great expanse of water accounts for 99.6% of the Maldives, making it the ultimate Seafaring Nation!

This Archipelagic State of the Indian Subcontinent is encompassed by 26 Atolls, which are defined as ‘a ring-shaped reef, island, or chain of islands formed of coral’ and represent what us Brits know as counties. With an average elevation of 2-metres above sea level, the Maldives attracts visitors who are mainly fascinated by the marine life.

During our recent visit to the Maldives we learnt a lot about the Resort Histories, their Sustainability measures, how they conduct their service and how the Maldivian Government supports the trade and its workers.

Global Pandemic & Pulling Together

As of 2020, Tourism was the Maldives’ largest sector of the economy, providing more than 28% of GDP and 60% of foreign exchange (GlobalEdge). Faced with an international embargo on travel, it was time for the Maldivian Ministry of Tourism to provide a solution to its greatest financial output. And on the 15th July 2020, the Maldives started to welcome international guests into its country again! Fast forward to 2023 and forecasts suggest that the Maldives is predicted to gain strong economic growth, with GDP anticipated to grow by 10.2% (The World Bank).

So, what did the Maldives do correctly?

Firstly, the topography of the Maldives invites the opportunity to be in isolation – an aspect that in the past has made the destination so popular amongst the likes of Honeymooners who want to experience intimacy in paradise. If we consider that around 200 of its islands are inhabited and the nation already has a small population (540,542, in 2020), it might be fair to say that the Maldives had been practicing social-distancing for some time. 

Perhaps the most impressive & important milestone in this country’s recent history was its vaccination rollout. In 2021, tourism authorities confirmed that as soon as the native population had been fully vaccinated, project ‘Visit, Vaccinate, Vacation’ would be in operation. This saw tourists being welcomed to the Maldives with a syringe & needle! The scheme worked and thousands of excited tourists packed their cases and headed toward the Indian Ocean.

Whist visiting a handful of Resorts in May, Travel Matters learnt more about the efforts & sacrifice that the islanders had made. During a candlelit-beach dinner with the Resort Manager of Adaaran Select Hudhuran Fushi, we discovered how testing this period of uncertainty was, but how the fruits of their labour were the sweetest of all pleasures. Ahmed retailed how strict the training and measures were, but how his Resort benefitted from subsequent repeat bookings. Although Ahmed admitted that he & his staff didn’t sleep much during the first few months, they all grew closer as a team and as friends –

‘There were times when I looked at my phone and it was 22:00. The next thing I knew it was 04:00 in the morning and my inbox had grown by another hundred emails.’

Adaaran Select Hudhuran Fushi

Fuelled by adrenaline and the intuitive need to serve their guests, Hudhuran Fushi and other Island Resorts persevered. Ahmed later confessed that he had no pleasure in quarantining his staff, as he knew that someone else’s workload would double. He jokingly boasted about having not contracted COVID-19 whilst he was working, but bitterly remarks about how he was eventually struck down by a watered-down variant upon returning to his home in Sri Lanka for a well-deserved break. His epilogue was perhaps the most poignant moment of our evening! Upon polite (but desperate) requests from guests, the staff at Hudhuran Fushi used their initiative and conducted the necessary due diligence that saw them contact guest’s national Embassies and the Maldivian Government. Medical workers were given their instructions and began to vaccinate permissible guests.

Top-Tier Service

Whilst everyone else was in isolation, Service workers in the Maldives were perfecting their craft!

Many Service Economies were shut-down all across the world. Even today, we are still experiencing a lack of Hospitality workers and what many would deem as an unsatisfactory level of service. Maldives reopened its borders in July 2020, meaning its lull in powering its service management delivery was minimal. In fact, due to the challenging environment of hosting guests during a global pandemic, the service quality grew. Sought after roles quickly become coveted and this competition may have bred a new era of customer perceived quality. The Maldives Government continues to incentivise roles in tourism and many of the workers in this industry prove how grateful they are to hold such a sought-after job.

During our 2-night stay at Heritance Aarah, we were assigned our Butler – Kunal. Originally from India, Kunal had worked in Hospitality all his life and possesses a Masters in Hotel Management. It was apparent from the get-go that this man had hospitality coursing through his veins. His affability and product knowledge was nearly as sharp as the piece of coral I trampled on just days before (Travelling Tip: I’d never found a use for Complimentary Hotel Sewing Kit until now – the needle was the finest object I could find to remove two pieces of fine coral in my foot) Kunal greeted us in a golf buggy and took us on a tour of the Resort, during which time he informed us of the Resort’s impressive facilities and only interjected to detail amusing personal anecdotes of his professional journey. Upon being delivered at our Beach Villa, Kunal presented us with his mobile number so that we could contact him at any time, with any request. There was never an instance that we weren’t tended to, but always in a subtle manner. Being modern and already having a fierce reputation, Heritance Aarah has cherry-picked some of the best Hospitality talent within this region of Asia. Over a thousand 5-Star Tripadvisor reviews is testament to all their hard work.

It’s easy to ramble on about the phenomenal service we experienced, but we were not ready for the first-class cuisine that was prepared for us! Indulging in traditional Japanese dining, tasting menus (paired with wines) and traditional Maldivian dining were certainly another highlight. Perhaps the most striking example of this was at Adaaran Select Meedhupparu. Shashika, the Front of Office Manager, introduced us to Meedhupparu’s idea of ‘Island Life’ - a seamless & soothing model that all his staff exudes onto guests. This Resort had the perfect balance of rustic beach life, merged with attentive service. On our first evening, we were invited to their Indian restaurant, which asks that female guests respect the traditional & rural practice of using a Sari to cover their shoulders. If you do not have one, the restaurant has its own clothes rail with a rainbow of different Saris that guests can borrow. We were seated at our table (that stood upon a sandy floor) and indulged in an excellent meal where the stars of the show were the Coconut Sambol and Mater Paneer. This is a destination that will fulfil the cravings of the most demanding of Food Critics!

During our final stay, we were whisked off the resort of Adaaran Prestige Vadoo, who is renowned for their 50 Sea Villas (think iconic Maldives Villas on Stilts). This island is only 2.5 Acres in size, so you get an incredible sense of togetherness…the perfect setting for Honeymooners! This time, we had the pleasure of Abdul acting as our Butler. A personal highlight was witnessing Abdul take time out of his busy day to teach non-swimmers how to snorkel, whilst being in the water himself. Every day Abdul would greet us with new & wonderful photos from the House Reef’s residents.

The Maldives isn’t just a destination to indulge in perfect beaches and witness a pod of dolphins breach alongside your boat trip. It’s a holiday experience that humbles and makes you realise the importance of a human exchange.

Kunal & Matt in discussion, during a site inspection.

(Matt, Travel Matters Business Development Manager, travelled to - Adaaran Prestige Vadoo, Adaaran Select Hudhuran Fushi, Adaaran Select Meedhupparu and Heritance Aarah in May 2022)

We are reaching the end of another Plastic Free July, an initiative started by the Plastic free Foundation in 2011 with the goal of creating a world free of plastic waste. 

We want to support its mission and celebrate the 140 million people who have decided to ‘choose to refuse’ plastic for the entire month, with the hope that these new habits will be carried on beyond the thirty-one days and will be incorporated in the everyday challenge.  

As responsible agents of the tourist industry, we cannot avoid asking some questions about the role and responsibilities of the sector with regards to reducing plastic waste.

Photo Credits @Hans Braxmeier from Pixabay

How is the Industry doing?  

We all know it is a huge problem on a global scale, and although is often accompanied by an overwhelming feeling, the urgency to act on it is an undeniable imperative.  

Echoing the existing widespread appeals, we want to reinforce the message: the time to act is now, because as frightening as it might be, the situation gets worse by the minute, with data showing an extremely sad and catastrophic path for our planet and its species. 

The tourism industry carries big responsibility regarding the production of waste and other kinds of pollution. In fact, this sector is not only responsible for creating up to twice as much solid waste per capita as local residents, as reported by the IFC Environmental Health and Safety Guidelines (2007, Washington D.C.), but it also generates a large amount of single-use plastic waste. According to Plastic Oceans, the waste created by tourism represents half of our global annual plastic production, which in turn contributes to climate change and puts further pressure on our environment.

Photo Credit @Gary Chan

Photo Credit @EU Environment on Twitter

We need to hold the sector accountable, because even though the tourism industry cannot solve the global plastic problem on its own, it can drastically reduce its contribution and impact.

 Many initiatives are taken worldwide to reduce, substitute, and replace the single-use plastic in different parts of our industry. Solutions like LRSU Toolkit by Travel without Plastic, focus on the manageable actions that every single hotel can take, multiplying the effect across regions and countries.

However, beyond the individual, valuable responses found and pursued independently, there is a factor that could drive real exponential change.

Influence and Engagement

We believe that the biggest innovation we can cultivate is the monumental power of influence that the tourism sector has in determining the speed and the course of change, especially in terms of mindset.

Leading by example is only one aspect of it. 

Engaging guests and customers by implicitly inviting them to embark on the plastic reduction journey with us has proved to be very effective in terms of accelerating behavioural changes, while also being profitable from a business perspective.  

However, if we want to boost our impact and effectiveness across the sector, we should start including our whole supply chain in the process. 

Asking our business partners (both locally and globally) the right questions, will make everyone realise that we face the same problems, which will provide space for new collaborative solutions. A combination of local skills, unexpected engagement, and the right political influence could provide the necessary boost to support the shared mission and set incremental goals that are achievable.  

While reducing pressure on the environment, asking these questions seems to also have the advantage of improving the quality of our relationships with our partners and strengthening the grassroots networks.

Consideration of the environmental impact across the whole supply chain appears to be one of the most effective solutions we can choose, and the following cases show interesting ways of doing this; their success proves that, with the appropriate collaborative mindset, we can go well beyond plastic reduction.

 We needed a Boat made of Plastic to see the Circle

 A dhow – a traditional sailing boat that in the past has taken merchants to Arabia and India – has been built out of 33 tonnes of plastic waste found on the 10 km beach of Lamu, a small town on the northern coast of Kenya. 

The Flipflopi Project – the East African movement responsible for the building of the boat, is a brilliant initiative that has found a way to visualise the problem and the solution at the same time.

Photo Credit @The Flipflopi Project

Since 2019 the boat has travelled to local coastal communities to raise awareness about the issue, working with schools, and involving media, local government representatives, and also artists and scientists.

Looking at the pillars of the circular economy, we can re-imagine the new life that a product can have, and it is suddenly clear that what the innovative economic approach suggests is a more balanced and harmonious way of looking at the potentially never-ending cycles of creativity.
We don’t need to produce new items, we can reuse, repair, recover, even re-gift what we already have.

Although the circular economy might not be the ultimate solution – because we obviously still need to reduce and refuse the use of plastic to avoid creating more waste down the line – a great benefit of the Flipflopi project is to show us the circles we are all in, the ones made of weak links that need to be strengthened, but also the potential ones we are yet to explore.

A strong community is made of strong connections between the individual activities, the economic hubs, the civil society organisations, the local government, but also its artists and skilled entrepreneurs.

The need to learn how to collaborate and engage with and within the local communities we operate in as a sector in the search for solutions that maximise the positive benefits and minimise the impact we leave, becomes even more compelling when facing the plastic issue.

New Grassroots Trends

The City Council of the town of Cumberland, a western suburb of Sydney, Australia, has discovered that the local community has the skills and the ability to find appropriate solutions, and that it is worth asking for its collaboration.

‘Through creative thinking and productive partnerships within the community’, they have been able to engage marginalised women to promote new sources of income for them, and ‘the Bags from Banners’ Project has been reducing the amount of waste needed to be disposed of and processed, and, at the same time, educating its citizens about the issues related to waste and plastic.

Sometimes, it is just a matter of receiving the invitation to participate.

When people are asked to come together, they are moved by a new sense of community, new solutions are found, and social and economic development can be achieved much more easily.

Photo Credit @PlasticFreeJuly_ ‘The Bag from Banner’ Project

Photo Credit @everdrop GmbH

However, to achieve a more structural change, we suspect that we need to move beyond simple participation and re-think the management system of our societies.

Marta Muslin – an Associate to Equality in Tourism and National Coordinator of the Indonesia Waste Platform (IWP) – was invited to participate in one of the ‘UNEP Seminars’ (see video below) that addressed how to integrate gender equality in tourism operations, and was moderated by Travel Matter’s founder Karen Simmonds.

Marta presented an interesting grassroots response to the problem of waste in the eastern regions of Indonesia. What is today called the Komodo Model, started on the island of Komodo in 2020, as an organised answer to the COVID pandemic and the lack of tourism-related jobs.

Defined as a ‘community-based waste management system’, the ‘Komodo model’ is an opportunity to tackle an ongoing waste problem for Indonesian coastal regions, and provides local sustainable development led by local women and young people, while also reducing the pressure on the natural environment caused by traditional frequent burning of waste.

The key to success relies on what is more than simple collaboration. The community-led development project, which is tailor-made to adapt to the different local circumstances is, in fact, based on the involvement of both the central and local government, as well as local non-governmental actors and the Indonesian recycling sector; but also, very importantly, it ‘advocates community engagement in decision-making and management, with a goal of using communities’ local knowledge and resources’.

Moving to New Collective Solutions

By reaching the end of another Plastic Free July, we hope that all the new opportunities to collaborate have lightened the pressure on our environment and reduced the amount of plastic we use.

However, what we hope for the most, is that people become aware – directly or indirectly – that we are all active parts of the solution, and knowing that we are not alone in the challenge, we can realise the immense power we have to transform our own societies.

The plastic issue, as well as the bigger issue of the climate crisis, creates precious opportunities to come together as an industry, and reinvent, redefine, and re-establish how we do tourism. The old practices need to change and make space for new habits.

Photo Credits @WeForum.org

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller)

Click, click, click … or snap, snap, snap!

Regardless of how digital the noise might sound, this is undoubtedly the typical soundtrack of the majority of our trips.

Beyond the familiar feeling of pleasant satisfaction, taking travel pictures often opens up deep ethical questions about the morality of the shot.

Beyond the Voyeuristic Shot

When we see something ‘exotic’, interesting, curious, unusual or simply beautiful to our eyes, we want to click. Because something, for any reason, attracts our attention, we decide to absorb the information through a lens and on the sensor of our machine, and store it for future reference or nostalgic moments of sharing.

However, when the shots involve other human beings, the level of the moral questions we ask ourselves should rise, obviously.

Photo Credits @MUF - Museu de Favela

How to avoid the risk of an empty Voyeuristic exercise?

How to avoid the risk of an empty voyeuristic exercise? How can we make sure that our shots are embedded with local meaning and, above all, that they are respectful of the people and aware of the moment and the place in which they are taken?

Beyond the necessary moral questions, sometimes the exercise also becomes culturally dangerous.

When we travel without proper knowledge of the place, for example, we tend to reaffirm our biases and stereotypes through the pictures we take.

As shown in the findings of the research that I conducted on Slum Tourism in Rio de Janeiro between 2008 and 2009, the act of visiting a favela with an external tour operator, who has no connection with the place, doesn’t usually add any valuable new information to the visitor’s experience; in addition, the images that are shared on social media afterwards only reproduce the initial perceptions of the place: the local social issues, poverty, degradation.

Our eyes can only see what our mind processes and currently considers to be the reality.

In the same research, I also analysed pictures taken by guests who had chosen to go with a local tour operator, or directly with a CBT project, and they looked totally different. These images showed different people engaged in different activities; the scenes portrayed were also different, as different as were the corners of the streets, the views, the surroundings, even those in the same favela.

Not only did the people appear to be in places that were almost unrecognisable, and not automatically associated with a favela, but also their relationships with the guests seemed different; amazingly, sometimes you would have to look closely, and pause for a while, before identifying who is the tourist and who is the resident.

Photo Credits @Rocinha Original Tour

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

Travel Matters has created a useful list of tips about responsible behaviour when travelling as guests in other people’s homes. It suggests questions, attitudes and a critical mindset towards the unusual reality we face, and it can be used as guidance for travellers on ethical behaviour. 

Given my personal passion for photography, I would like to complement Travel Matters record of responsible actions with some thoughts and recommendations about photography, because it is a powerful tool, which, if used without awareness, can also be powerfully destructive.

Start asking new questions!

The ethical questions should lead the way, for sure; however, we believe that there are other, new questions that could be included on the list.

Have we ever asked, for example, what that shot really means or represents for local people?

A picture is just a picture, some might say.

But is it, really?

I have seen the joy of little kids, excited to see themselves on the screen of my iPhone, which my guide was using while I was interacting with them.

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

I have seen the pride of the older boys, performing in the streets of Harar, showing their acrobatic skills to the foreigner visitors. I have also seen the shyness of the children and the welcoming kindness of the women of rural communities. I have seen women discovering their beauty on the screen of my camera…

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

…while others, of all ages, were mischievously smiling at it. And I have, finally, seen women sharing their beauty with my digital lens, whilst being quietly proud of it.

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

Inspiration from the past to share the future

Although for this writing trip I want to remain on this side of the camera and have them – the local community members – on the other side of the lens, as a Community Storyteller I feel deeply that giving the camera to them is the other part of the tale that we should soon start to write together within tourism.
A symbolic gesture of such power that we cannot always foresee, an invitation to silence our busy minds and listen to local narratives: to reverse our gaze and open up an unwritten path to transform our perspectives by finally including new narratives – theirs.

Photo Credits @Morrinho

Photographer and Photographed: Subject and Object

So, today, for the sake of our reflections, we keep our camera hanging from our neck and pointing forward. On this path, since a predominantly ethnocentric attitude and lack of awareness has traditionally been the major source of problems concerning photography and travel, we should continue to ask ourselves uncomfortable questions. 

Am I doing the right thing?

Is this morally right?

Is taking this picture an ethical act? 

However, I am perturbed by the fact that in this discussion of ethical versus unethical photography, what is good and bad is still assessed mainly from the perspective of the traveller’s benefit, while the locals are still seen as being the passive objects of the action.

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

My last trip to Ethiopia added an additional layer to the matter, and it helped me to see another reality.

Since then, another kind of question started to arise in my mind.

Do we stop and reflect on what a picture means to someone else rather than to us?

What a picture means to them?

I want to leave aside, for now, the pre-pandemic discussions about what a picture can do to a place, and all the controversial correlations between the sudden spreading of pictures of paradisiacal beaches and the swamping with visitors of previously deserted locations, and the new over-tourism trends and threats.

On this occasion, I thought, I want to draw attention to what effect a picture has on the people on whom, for a moment, we want to sharpen our focus.

 Pictures as a gift

After spending time filming and interacting with the local inhabitants of Wajela community, my female guide Workeye and I were no longer surprised, and were a little amused too, to hear the same question being produced after each new person agreed to pose in front of my camera.
“When will you send me back this picture?”

This is what we do, as tourists: we go to places and we take in the beauty, we leave carbon footprints and, hopefully, something positive too, but hardly ever a picture.

And, although the locals can see the beauty of the fields and the mountains around them, a simple picture of themselves is something they don’t have access to.

Considering also that seeing themselves clearly reflected in a mirror is not a common experience for most inhabitants of rural villages, imagine what it could mean to them to see themselves on shiny glossy paper, or just on the screen of a new generation of device.

The whole experience of being photographed can represent something big and relevant in their lives.

When one of the old priests I met in the backyard of a church asked me if he could receive that picture with a frame, I admit that I burst into a loud and incredulous laugh, astonished by the request.

But in the exact same moment ‘the penny dropped’ and suddenly I could see the frame that he was asking me to bring, placed in a corner of his modest thatched residence. For a long, intense second, I felt what he was feeling while looking at the image of that framed picture, the simple pride, the recognition, his special mirror. All the reasons to laugh vanished in the next second, then I crouched and shot his portrait, my knee brushing the ground, holding my breath, click.

Photo Credits @Elisa Spampinato

For a moment I felt that my camera had become more than a storage for visual memories, or a tool for an artistic creation, and it had transformed into a selfless bridge builder to serve, for once, the person on the other side of the lens.

That moment represented more than just giving back, to me – it was a silent cultural connector, playing its role quietly but effectively. Helping me to make him be seen.

**

Who are you taking that picture for?

Is it just for yourself, or to share your memories with your family and friends? 

Perhaps that photograph can help you to open a dialogue with another human being, a dialogue that will not only help to dismantle stereotypes, but which also has the potential to become an opportunity to create an equal and non-monetary exchange between two usually distant universes, momentarily stroking each other’s edges. 

** 

Conclusion

As travellers, even if we have no aspiration to become a photo reporter or a visual blogger, the simple thought of considering who is on the other side of the lens, and what a picture might mean to them – at every single shot – can help us to become more respectful and conscious.

Photo Credits @Rocinha Original Tours

A photograph can be used as a bridge builder between distant people and cultures, and it can play the strategic role of human and cultural connector.

When the end goal is not the picture itself, but an experience, we can aim to connect with other human beings through our camera.

Especially because we shouldn’t rely on a photo to store our memories.

Sometimes the precious moment that you hold in your heart is the picture that was never taken – the one you wanted to, but knew you shouldn’t take, or the resonant laughter that rung out before or after the click. That is what will make your heart swell when your mind travels back to that place.

Rocinha Original Tours

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller)

I hadn’t been to the island of Crete since a childhood holiday in the 80’s, so I jumped on the invitation to explore the prestigious Elounda Penninsula All Suite hotel in early May and make new memories.

Geographically speaking, Crete is unique being equidistant from Europe, Asia and Africa. It is Greece’s largest island measuring 260 kilometres long and anything from 12 to 56 kilometres wide. It is mountainous in parts and offers huge variations in both landscape and climate. Olive groves and vineyards are interspersed with short mountain ranges, and the north of the island’s inviting bays and ports contrast with the more rugged coastline of the south.

Spring in Crete truly begins in April, when the island is awash in flowers. Temperatures aren't too hot at this time, making it a great season for hiking and cycling. By April the water temperature is warm enough for swimming. Summer is almost pure sunshine in Crete and often warm temperatures, as heatwaves from Africa  can cause the mercury to rise.

We flew into Crete in early May and it was so easy with regular flights from London Gatwick to Heraklion with EasyJet during the day and evening. The flight time is a mere 4 hours.Arriving in the evening at Heraklion airport we were escorted from the airport terminal to a luxury mini-van with its cool air conditioning and chilled water. The whole process was effortless and a quick transfer of around 45 minutes meant we were soon warmly welcomed by staff at the Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotel.

 The hotel is located in Eastern Crete is also just a few miles north of Agios Nikolas and very near to the town of Elounda. I was intrigued to experience staying here as it is one of the most exclusive hotels in Greece and “Europe’s top seafront luxury hotel” according to Conde Nast Traveler, with 59 suites and villas. Positioned on a peninsular stretch of land, it enjoys an outstanding location overlooking the Bay of Elounda, Mirabello Bay, and the Aegean Sea. The view is blue as far as the eye can see and the water crystal clear. The hotel is reached by a private road that leads to the reception area on the top floor, with expansive verandas making you feel like you are on the bridge of a ship.

Additionally, I learnt the hotel is designed so that all rooms have a sea view and privacy balcony, some also include a plunge pool or pool. The complex looks like a charming Greek Village complete with stone walkways and vibrant vegetation and it is just delightful to wander around.

The Elounda Peninsula Hotel has All Suite attached to its name for the reason that all their accommodations are luxury suites: the Junior Suites Sea View, the Peninsula Collection Suites, Beachfront Junior Suites, Peninsula Grand Villas, Presidential Suites, Presidential Villas, Diamond Residences, Royal Grand Suite, and the Peninsula Residence. (Seafront presidential suites have exclusive access to the sea)

The VIP treatment started from the time I stepped into the hotel. Each of us was welcomed with a refreshing glass of bubbly and a ‘Peninsula Welcome Treat’ and surprise courtesies were left out every day during our stay. Checking into my Junior Suite did not disappoint. A spacious room, jaw dropping views of the bay and gorgeous furnishings. A luxurious bathroom complete with all the bath amenities you could think of. Comfort is not in any way compromised– they provide feather pillows which are hypoallergenic and a huge and comfortable bed. From the bedsheet up to the tiniest details such as the marble tiles in the bathroom, their rooms certainly exceeded all my expectations.

The luxury doesn’t stop when you leave the main hotel since the resort has its own private beach for the exclusive use of Elounda Peninsula guests, set around a stunning tranquil cove where the staff are constantly on hand to bring cold water, fresh fruit, cold compresses or anything else that takes your fancy. You can swim, snorkel, relax and just watch the world go by.

Guests can use the extensive family facilities offered at the adjoining Porto Elounda GOLF & SPA RESORT, just a couple of minutes walk away, with the animal-themed kids club and creche. Children can enjoy indoor and outdoor play areas, and 2 supervised shallow pools. There is mask making, cookie baking and treasure hunts, as well unique activities like mini Olympic games and growing tomatoes in the garden. Even 6-month old babies are taken care of, freeing up some valuable time for parents. There is also AstroTurf tennis courts, a movie theatre for private screenings and 9-hole golf course within the resort.

And, for those who prefer water-based activities, there are multiple boats for water-skiing and wakeboarding, with instructors available to teach beginners or help you improve your skills.

No account of the resort would be complete without mentioning the outstanding quality and variety of the restaurants. From Asian cuisine to Authentic Greek Culinary Experience, Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotel has has a wide array of options.

The gourmet restaurant Calypso, delivered culinary delights in an exclusive ambiance, next to a turquoise pool that seems to overflow into the sea. My favourite was the Greek degustation evening at the seaside Odysseus restaurant complete with live Bouzouki, Greek meze and a wide variety of speciality dishes.

 The impressive Kelari wine cellar, home to a truly remarkable selection of labels spanning decades offers private tasting conducted by an awarded sommelier, as well as private dining for up to 8 guests. Koh Pan-Asian Restaurant, located just above sea level at the very tip of the peninsula, offers a magical setting in which to enjoy culinary delights from the Far East.

Don’t miss the Cretan night – a traditional Cretan feast full of local flavours and delicacies accompanied by music and traditional dance in which guests can participate in the square. Meat and poultry are cooked in a Cretan way only using the finest ingredients and the best extra-virgin olive oil that Crete is famous for. Of course, a meal wouldn’t be complete without the oh-so-yummy Cretan Desserts!

For those seeking something a little more sedate, a visit to the Six Senses spa is a must on any visit to the hotel; a winner of multiple awards, it overlooks the hotel complex so enjoys stunning views over the cove and across the bay. The spa offers a comprehensive range of treatments with talented therapists and I loved having a chance to relax with a full body massage.

The two mornings I was there I also attended the morning yoga and pilates group class held on the beach with private instructor, followed by a morning dip in the refreshing sea. What a delight!

One of the highlights of our trip was an afternoon excursion by boat across the blue waters to the island of Spinalonga. Nicknamed as the island of the living dead, Spinalonga, lies at the natural harbor of Elounda. Despite being a small barren island of 85 acres, it carries a long history and holds a special place in the Greeks' hearts, while it preserves its beauty notwithstanding its dark past. It was used as a leper colony from 1903 to 1957, and the fascinating aspects of its history are explored (and made famous) in The Island by Victoria Hislop.

The outstanding facilities at the Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotel combined with the wonderfully attentive and welcoming staff, scrumptious food and sublime location are just some of reasons why I am looking forward to a return visit soon. 3 days wasn’t long enough!

Zoe travelled in May 2022 courtesy of Flospitality and the team at the Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotell

I am BIG on self-care. It’s an important part of my daily life and I weave it into the fabric of my being daily. And, unless you have been living under a rock recently, you will also be familiar with the concept of self-care and just how important it is becoming in this life when we are constantly being pulled in a thousand directions.

Intentional self-care is all about taking the time to check-in with yourself physically, socially, emotionally, and spiritually to ensure that you are healthy and functioning at your best. It’s about creating a better body, mind & soul for yourself and it has real short and long term effects. 

And I recently discovered a new form of self-care. The supernova of self-care acts - if you will - in the form of solo travel.

The simple fact of the matter is that after the last few years many of us are feeling mentally and emotional battered and just utterly exhausted. For me, it didn’t matter how much Yoga, meditation, walks in nature or long baths I had, I was still feeling utterly depleted.

Then I went on a solo trip to the hills of Bologna, Italy, as Travel Ambassador for Travel Matters and discovered the power of solo travel as a form of self-care. I was only away for two nights, but let me tell you - it was the most empowering, liberating and mentally rejuvenating two nights I had experienced in a long time.

With that said, today I want to share with you how fantastically wonderful solo travel is a very much needed form of self-care:

1. Learning about and reconnecting with yourself

When you are travelling by yourself, it can take some time to get used to being in your own company, but although strange at first once you relax into it you really do start to enjoy the solitude and the sweetness it brings. 

Solo travel is a great way of spending a serious chunk of time by yourself, and is a great way to reconnect, know and trust yourself, your abilities and your intuition.

2. It’s all about you

How often do you get to do exactly what you want and when you want on holiday? In my personal experience, that is almost never because usually, I am trying to accommodate the want and needs of my family.

When you’re travelling alone you get to do exactly as you please, when you please. You can put yourself above all others, because there are no others! 

3. Dedication to recharging your batteries

Solitude brings an unparalleled opportunity to recharge your batteries, in peace and quiet. You can be as lazy as you want, sleep as long as you want, stroll through nature as long as you want, lie by the pool as long as you want. You get the picture!

4. Being you - unapologetically

Are you blighted by the modern-day infliction of selflessness? Over time, selflessness can seriously deplete your energy levels and sense of self. Solo travel is the perfect opportunity to redress the balance. The beauty of solo travel is that you are free to experience your destination and fulfil your desires. You do not need to wear a myriad of hats - partner, parent, boss, employee, friend, confident. You are just 100% you, and 100% in control, and that is incredibly empowering.,

5. Seeing the world with fresh eyes again

So often when I go away with the family, I come back from a holiday needing another holiday. But with solo travel, you leave all the burnout and overwhelm behind, and are so well rested that you come back seeing the world with fresh eyes again, and in technicolour. You have a newfound gratitude for all that is in your life, and that is nothing short of priceless.

So as you can tell, I am a firm advocate of solo travel! It was the first time in 15 years I had experienced it, but now I’ve had another taste of it, I can’t wait to do it again. I’ve realised what a precious form of self-care it is, and how beneficial it is for our mental, emotional, spiritual and physical wellbeing. If only our GPs would prescribe it! But failing that, why not talk to the team at Travel Matters about how you can get your dose of solo travel self-care here.

(Talya, Travel Matters Travel Ambassador, travelled in May 2022 to Palazzo Di Varignana. She is the proud Founder of Motherhood: The Real Deal and 40 Now What)

I booked my Walking and Trekking holiday to Northern Cyprus in January 2020, just a couple of months before we were all condemned to travel lockdown. I was offered cash-back for my trip, but I had heard so much about the beauty and fascination of the area that I postponed my trip for a year, and then - for yet another year, until May in 2022. It was definitely well worth the wait and lived up to all my expectations.

I had previously visited Southern Cyprus a couple of times, both in the Paphos region and up in the Troodos Mountains, but had never crossed to the north via the legendary Green Line. Many people, including those who had been in the British forces during the "troubles", had told me that the North of the island, now officially called the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, was much more attractive than the South.

My impression of the South, with its many archaeological sites and monuments to Aphrodite, is of a country with a sea such a deep blue that we in more northern climes can only dream of seeing it, a climate that offers a gentle breeze to alleviate the heat, and excellent and not-too-expensive food served by friendly waiters in tavernas on hillsides "with a view". There is, however, such a hangover from the British Empire days that sometimes there is very little feeling of "being abroad". The British ex-pat community live a happy life that is rather like being in Sussex in the sun. Which is wonderful, but sometimes we ask for a little more "exoticism" when we are on holiday. This is what I experienced once I crossed the Green Line.

Of course the history of the island is shared between both the Greek and Turkish "halves" of the island, and I am no expert in politics, but through conversations with people of both sides, it seems that the average person would very much like a reconciliation. In the meantime, to go north, we need to fly into Larnaka in the Greek sector, and travel via the border control on the Green Line in Nicosia for about an hour, in order to enter the Turkish sector. Only planes from Turkey itself are allowed to fly into the comparatively small airport in the north. Nicosia is the only capital city in the world to be divided into two and shared by both the North and South.

Once over the border you do feel like you are in a different country with a more middle eastern feel: narrow streets with pretty little houses, busy markets, more minarets, Turkish coffee (!) and wine, and, once you get outside the city, the landscape is definitely more dramatic and exciting: huge mountains dominating the skyline, covered in thousands of huge trees, and a fertile plain that stretches forever.

My holiday consisted of days mostly spent in clambering up and down the tree covered mountains, through dried up rivers covered in huge boulders and slippery gravel, proving the usefulness of hiking sticks or extremely long legs. A certain level of fitness was definitely necessary, but it was all manageable for older people (like myself).

Not just at the very top, but all the way up and along these forest paths, the views were spectacular. We also visited quite a few castles built high up in the peaks: Kyrenia Crusader Castle, Saint Hilarion Castle, Kantara Castle, Buffavento Castle, the history of which (dating back to Phoenicians, Romans , Byzantines, French etc.) was all related to our small group by our excellent guide, Gizer, accompanied by some interesting little tit-bits as to how a certain queen would drown her lovers before her husband the king got back from his crusades, how Richard the Lion Heart wasted no time in ferociously avenging the kidnapping of his fiancé, and (in the amazing Roman ruins of Salamis) how the men would all sit together in a huge half circle on the wooden toilet seats discussing the problems of the world, or who was likely to win the next major sporting event.

Interesting too are the many huge churches, originally for the Greek Orthodox Church, left in perfect condition, or actually being renovated, which is proof to the fact that, in this part of the world, Islam and Christianity can live peacefully side by side.

My favourite moment was visiting the beautiful 12th century abbey in Bellapais, made famous by Laurence Durrell in his book "Bitter Lemons". Then, walking up the steep road to his house, the renovation of which he describes so vividly, was a magic moment. Incidentally, the house is for sale!

A sadder excursion was to Famagusta, and the "ghost town" of Varasha, closed to civil life since the conflict of 1974. The hotels are all still there, as are the houses, and some say that, locked in underground car parks , there are still dozens of luxury cars. On the beach (said to be one of the best in Europe) where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor once frolicked, a few umbrellas and sun beds are now permitted, but nothing else is open. Apparently the zone is a part of a possible negotiation for re-unification!

The food in both parts of the island is equally good, but a bit cheaper in the north. So, my advice is, take a holiday in both North and South Cyprus!

Our client Patricia Pearson travelled to North Cyprus in May 2022

June has already reached us, but we would like to return to last month and recall an event that we think deserves some reflection.

The week 9–15 May was Mental Health Awareness week, this year focusing on Loneliness.

“In a travel blog post?! Such a weird place to talk about loneliness”, one might think.
But is it such a strange association, really?

Photo by Elisa Spampinato

Loneliness is a real issue for our societies, one that is quite uncomfortable to talk about and mostly hidden inside us, with shame. And, unfortunately, it only grows stronger when not faced and shared.

“Yet while millions of us experience feelings of loneliness, we can still find it hard to talk about. One in five of us hide our feelings of loneliness from others.”

Travel is, overall, perceived as a great source of joy and excitement; therefore, some might say that it is potentially a useful antidote for loneliness.

“Can travel cure loneliness?” We think that this is a false question, more dangerous perhaps than the loneliness itself – if that is possible.

We don’t believe that travel can automatically ‘cure’ anything; however, we do believe that travel carries wonderful seeds, which can grow into a plant whose fruit has healing properties and can lead us to a happier and more fulfilled life.

Photo by MUF-RJ

Let’s see with which soil and under which external conditions those seeds may benefit us, so that a trip can not only give us temporary pleasure and enjoyment – which some may even confuse with ‘happiness’ – but also create deeper changes and long-lasting transformational effects in ourselves and in our communities.

THE BUBBLE WE ARE ALL IN

We can travel with concerns only for ‘having a great time’, ‘having the perfect experience’, ‘doing cool things’ and ‘ticking all the boxes’ of our externally constructed bucket list for a place.

However, this kind of travel, in the same way as when we suffer from feelings of loneliness, makes us feel as though we are drifting miles away from everyone else, on a self-activating conveyor belt.

We are disconnected – not only from the real atmosphere of a place, but also from other enriching human encounters.

 I call this ‘travelling in our own bubble’. 

But we know that travel has such great positive potential at the individual level, including giving us new lenses to ‘see’ the world from a different angle and in different colours too.
In our minds, awesome images are triggered by the word ‘travel’.

Exotic scenery, warm waters, sunny and bright beaches, white peaks, and fresh footprints on immaculate white snow. Green lights in the northern skies, desertic views, volcanic lakes surrounded by green mountains hiding the cities of pre-Columbian civilisations. The list could go on forever. 

And yet, if we travel with the goal of escaping the boredom of our daily reality, to do something very special and memorable so that we can add it to our list of achievements, we are just sweeping more of the dust of discontent under the carpet, which, on our return, will look more like a rough and hilly surface than the flat and comfy floor-covering it is supposed to be.

Photo by Elisa Spampinato

Travel cannot cure loneliness, only temporarily conceal it, perhaps.

And the unfaced and unspoken reasons that led us to ‘escape’ our reality, will carry on accumulating dangerously and perhaps become a Mental Health issue in the future.

CONNECTING

Travel brings joy because it allows us to make new connections, not only in our brains, by taking in new information, learning about other cultures and history; but also, because it allows us to make new human connections.

If we reflect a moment on it, we realise that our travel stories and travel memories are full of people, not just places – isn’t that the case!

Photo by Elisa Spampinato

Those encounters with the local farmers, or with the barman at the hotel, the chat with other travellers in the cosy neighbourhood bar or the untranslated exchanges of smiles and body language we had with the woman that taught us how to weave colourful baskets from grass or banana leaves.
These are the encounters that will populate our hearts on the way back home, and, hopefully, for years to come. 

One definition of empathy is “the ability to emotionally understand what other people feel, see things from their point of view, and imagine yourself in their place”. 

Through empathy we can connect on a deeper level with other human beings, and the similarities always overtake the differences we may perceive in each other’s lives, concerns and goals.

But when we travel ‘in our own bubble’ there seems not to be space for many real connections; it is mainly isolation and self-referenced thoughts.

BURSTING THE BUBBLE

What is the difference between being inside and outside the bubble, then?

We believe that the difference lies in the answer to the following questions:
Why do we travel? What is the intention that consciously, and mostly unconsciously, we put into this ‘activity’?

Are we aware of the real reasons behind our desire for travel?

Lack of awareness of those motivations can make the walls of the bubble we are in much thicker, separating us from the beauty and the undiscovered marvels that surround us, and that could also change and transform us.

And our trip will then be just a temporary glowing experience to show off to friends, but a missed opportunity for personal growth.

But if, for example, we decide to allow our mind to switch, we might have a completely other experience next time we travel.

While travelling we are in the perfect place to discover new places and have extra-ordinary experiences  – this is mainly because we are out of our comfort zone, and, according to Simon Sinek, even though a “comfort zone is a sage and beautiful place, no one ever grows there”.

If we want to grow as human beings, rather than just boarding a plane and getting a new stamp in our passport, travelling is a golden opportunity.  

How can we switch our mind, then? 

We can start by simply stretching our arm through the surface of that bubble, so that we can start to burst the bubble we are in.

Bursting the bubble in which we have been travelling is like lifting that carpet and facing what is underneath. We may not like it, but once we acknowledge it we can start the clean-up.

With the gesture of stretching our arm out, we are asking for something new, even if it is still unknown, and undiscovered. And, despite that – or sometimes, just because of that – we are ready to travel, we are finally embarking on a journey.

Photo by Elisa Spampinato

We endorse the definition of ‘Transformational Travel’ given by the Transformational Travel Council (TTC) as: “intentionally travelling to stretch, learn and grow into new ways of being and engaging with the world.” 

The TTC has been a ground breaker in choosing to focus on what travel can give beyond the materialistic and immediate satisfaction of a trip.

However, the most crucial message the TTC brings to the tourism world, we think, is that the real journey starts at home, by wanting to change your mindset, not just by going to places, by while we are visiting those places.

Bursting the bubble is, then, a question of intention.

So, get out of your bubble, ask yourself the important questions, share your experience of personal growth, connect, and, most importantly, enjoy the journey.

This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato,
a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at  Traveller Storyteller

Corfu in spring is simply beautiful. I had heard that it is fantastic for an early season holiday but hadn’t anticipated that the weather would be that glorious. For the whole trip we were blessed with clear blue skies and comfortable 25-30 degrees weather - not too bad for the first half of May!

Understandably, the sea was was still quite fresh but it didn’t stop me or numerous other visitors from taking a dip - at the end of the day you had a warm sun to dry you! As a nature lover, I was blown away by the rich vegetation and colourful blossoms adorning the island - Corfu is one of the greenest islands in Greece but Spring is particularly great for those who love to stop and smell the roses - or rather rosemary in Greek reality! Corfu has numerous walking and cycling trails and there is no better time to explore those than in Spring. Or how about witnessing a magical spectacle of fireflies while walking from your dinner from a local taverna? This also happens only early in the season.

I travelled to Corfu courtesy of Simpson travel, a well loved family-run holiday tour operator with hand picked properties around Europe. Their portfolio in Corfu is certainly very impressive - from stand alone villas, be it a traditional Greek beachfront house or a luxury hilside contemporary abode, to small charming hotels and self-catering estates. Enough to satisfy even the most discerning of guests. Their support in resort from highly experienced concierges and reps is second to none - many of them have been with the company for decades and really love what they do. 

I viewed numerous properties on the island - get in touch to discuss your next holiday. I particularly liked Rou Estate - a beautifully restored hamlet of 14 stylish and elegant houses with breathtaking views  and magnificent landscaped gardens. The atmosphere of the estate is that of an utter peace and uniting with nature - smells, sounds and views are just a treat to all your senses. With a variety of units Rou Estate is simply ideal for single or multiple families travelling together. A great place to socialise in an intimate environment or be as private as you want - the choice is yours. 

The resort that we had as our base was the lovely hotel Bella Mare - a delightful beachfront hotel overlooking the stunning Alvaki beach with only 31 rooms, most of which had royally sized terraces with enchanting views. I loved that the part of the beach where the hotel is located always felt very private. This little gem is perfect for families as it has supervised children activities in July and August. While for those seeking peace and relaxation they have a new exclusive section of the hotel with it’s own infinity pool that is adults only outside school holidays. 

On this trip we were treated to some of the best local restaurants on the island. Everyone knows that Greek food is among firm favourites around the world but the eateries we visited were just another level - mouth watering mezes, melt in your mouth seafood and excellent local wines. We will be delighted to make some recommendations on your next trip to Corfu!

Maryna travelled to Corfu with Simpson Travel in May 2022

Back in March, in a corner of London, we came together for a networking event within the Travel & Tourism sector. We gathered to celebrate women empowerment, diversity and inclusion. The onus of the evening was to specifically celebrate the power of hope and ability to strengthen the defences against the fear… is the HOPE not us?!

Gathering Forces & Local Voices

Travel Matters brought together their clients, peers and stakeholders from different corners of the travel world. The opportunity to raise a toast in person and have a relaxed chat is a valuable gift for such an important celebration, especially after the last couple of years.

I was pleasantly surprised to realise that the local voices I heard were not just the local Londoners’ voices – even though those were loud in abundance – but there were also voices delivered from distant lands, through the videos showcased during the evening. All profits from the event were donated to the Travel Matter’s chosen charity, Empart UK – their mission is to fulfil and provide new working opportunities to women.

As tourism professionals, as well as women, we shouldn’t forget that personal empowerment passes through financial independence, especially in places where women traditionally do not hold a position of relevance beyond the limits of the household. Today, some women still feel that society feels like an inaccessible VIP circle, whose entrance door continues to remain sealed to them.

During the event we were introduced to a third world where empowered women used their new tools, such as sewing machines, in modern environments...all with bright smiles on their faces. Acts, such as this, serve as a simple reminder to all of us; our passions and cultivated skills are our golden ticket to mental freedom and great achievements.

A precious thought to be nourished and shared!

The Screening

Besides the panel of experts and committed professionals invited to share their personal experiences & professional positions and strong opinions (mainly on gender equality), the event’s focal point was the display of two short documentaries about two young and inspiring female role models that had been directed by two upcoming female Directors – ‘Kamali’, directed by Sasha Rainbow and ‘Dive Tierra Bomba Dive’, directed by Joya Berrow & Lucy Jane. These short movies had been provided by one the events Sponsors, Minute Shorts.

I would say that both documentaries provided an insightful and poetic zoom-in into two very powerful personal stories, and I believe that couldn’t be a more appropriate choice to celebrate International Women’s Day 2022.

The two young protagonists have helped us to see their world with different eyes, while uplifting us with the strength of their personal passions – one by diving into the sea and appreciating of her coral reefs and the other by venturing bravely on a skateboard on dusty, unknown and male dominated streets.

From two distant locations we have been presented with two very different and equally important issues, both very close to Travel Matters’ interest and support. In India, the social discrimination and challenge of raising a rebellious-spirit filled daughter as a single mother; in Colombia, the pollution and gradual destruction of the marine environment surrounding the island of Tierra Bomba, crucial for the survival of the local community and the traditional fishing activities. Kamaliand Yassandra gifted us with the precious present of hope, showing us that no matter how huge the mountain may appear, it is possible to find a way to climb it. And when a 9-year old Kamali was faced with the steepness of a rocky wall, she could have easily surrendered to her fears - those being the harsh moral judgement of our local community or the macro-economic decisions of a world she cannot control.

In their own peculiar ways, the two protagonists warned us that we will always find strong reasons to feed the fears, whilst investing our energies into growing these fears, all whilst fighting the cruel and unfair reality that consumes our thoughts. However, the young women remind us that we could choose to let our passion speak louder, diverting the attention to the creative path instead, with joy and determination.

Paradoxically, when Kamali’s mother, Suganthi, openly shares her vulnerable side, she appears stronger than ever! With her tears washing away the weakness of forcing the same fate she had on her daughter. Instead, those nourishing tears (framed by a relieving smile) spread the love and the wish of a different future for her daughter. Her bravery is a gift to Kamali and other daughters, so that more girls tomorrow can choose their own path, breaking the heavy wall of the traditional expectations.

On her island, Yassandra’s financial constrains could be an obstacle in her journey in preserving the natural environment she feels so intimately connected to. And even facing what appears to be a dead road, she continues to push her dreams higher, imagining the future she aspires to create. Somehow, the uncertainty strengthens her desire to show the coral reef to her community, boosting their environmental awareness and converting them into defenders of their ecosystem.

The issue of gender equality, social disparity, the preservation of the biodiversity and respect for the local community’s quality of life are led in the documentaries by powerful women who carry a bigger mission than they realise. The trendsetters innovate and open new avenues through small changes in the mindset of their static society, providing a new perspective on life so that progressive solutions become visible...but they always start by breaking some bias we all carry within!

Breaking the Bias

We gathered to celebrate another year with full consciousness of our incomplete journey towards diversity, equality and inclusion – in tourism, as well as in the whole society. We also attended to plant more seeds and to make this day an everyday recurrence and an everyday challenge that everyone of us should initiate. This is why I welcome this year IWD’s theme, ‘#breakthebias’. This allows us to reflect on the deep personal roots of our developing society.

Because, what does it mean to break the bias, after all? The act of breaking them can only follow a clear and conscious acknowledgment. So, the real question is “What are those biases we need to break in order to live in a society with gender equality?”

Photo by Vonecia Carswell

Many biases are ones we carry from birth; which are reinforced by our society, traditions and work environments. Are we aware of them? Are we ready to let them go? A break is often needed to set us free, so that our deep passions can open the way to new experiences.

I admit that I left the screening with more questions than answers that night and with a revived sense of alert, blinking outward from my mind and soul. This made me reflect and realise the weight of my fears and how much I have taken for granted and accepted, as a woman. If you allow me, I would like to invite you to make a hopeful resolution for this coming year – let’s break our own bias, starting with the fears rooted inside us!

(By Elisa Spampinato, a Community Storyteller & Travel Writer)

Copenhagen Canal Quayside

What a privilege to visit Copenhagen. I hadn't discovered a new city since 2019 and when you are in my industry, that's quite a long time. The joy of packing the suitcase and heading off to investigate a new country filled me with such joy. A flight to Copenhagen is super quick with a very straight forward transfer from the Danish airport to the city centre. A civilized flight mid morning allowed us to be in the city mid afternoon with time to jump on some bikes and adventure around.  Our base for the next couple of days was the iconic hotel D’Angleterre - a beauty of a property if I have ever seen one. Central, grand, homely, not stuffy - its staff oozed welcome with friendly engaging smiles and caring attitudes - oh and I should add home to the Michelin star restaurant Marchal.  

Karen outside the Hotel D’Angleterre, Copenhagen

Photo by Febiyan

I had been curious to visit Copenhagen and Denmark overall - my knowledge of the country was somewhat limited - think Lego, Carlsberg lager and the Nordi series on Netflix The Bridge!! I love a Scandi thriller! Incidentally that bridge, over 8 kms long, links Denmark to Sweden allowing many Swedes and Danes easy access to live and work in both countries. Back to my curiosity of the country - I had heard good things about the Danes and their way of life, their attitude to community and happiness. You are probably well acquainted by the term Hygge - meaning connection, coziness and enjoying the simple pleasures of life with those you love.

The City of Happiness

Did you know that there is the Research Institute of Happiness headed up by Meik Wiking? The organization is an independent think tank exploring why some societies are happier than others. Their mission is to inform decision makers of the causes and effects of human happiness, making well-being part of the public policy debate, and improving quality of life for everyone on the planet. They partner with cities, governments and organisations to set the agenda to improve quality of life. With so much care in a society it’s obvious that its citizens would find suitable ways to look after their environment too, which is reflected in their living choices and behaviour - the Danes are leading in sustainability especially with building infrastructure and how it affects their environment. Another fun fact I learnt is the new cable, 760kms long - yes you read that correctly (the world's longest high voltage cable) is being laid under the sea between Denmark and the UK which is going to supply us with renewable energy from the Danes wind farms  - how cool is that? A great scheme that will help the environment and help us Brits come away from fossil fuels.

Karen in Christianhavn

Copenhagen really is a beautiful city -  full of eco-friendly buildings using renewable energy initiatives - green roofing, solar, rainwater harvesting systems, urban gardens and green space galore. I thought most novel is the waste plant which has a secondary function of offering a ski slope - a truly innovative and pioneering idea. On the subject of cleaner living - did you know that 9 out of 10 Danes own a bicycle? And 26% of families living with two children in the city of Copenhagen own a cargo bike. Londoner’s - we could do so much better than we do and take a leaf out of the Copenhagener’s book and come away from our dirty polluting cars.

The Hotel D’Angleterre offers their guests bikes for free so it was a pleasure to pedal off and meander around the city on the generously wide bike lanes. One unique cycle super highway crosses the canal. We had to wait as the bridge closed for the cyclists and was raised in order to let a tall ship pass along the canal. It was an awesome sight! 

The bicycle super highways of Copenhagen, by Aurora Ferreira

What else are the Danes doing right, you may ask - well free education for students, free health care, low criminality and a general good work/life balance. It's that feeling of Hygge again. So with the backdrop of understanding why Denmark had drawn me in, let me highlight a few experiences I tried when in the capital of happiness. 

I biked to the picturesque district of Christianshavn. An idyllic place to immerse yourself in the pretty and colourful neighbourhood which is made up of small islands.

The beautiful canals of Copenhagen

I participated in a sea plane excursion, boarding close to the Little Mermaid - it was a 20 minute excursion over the harbour, allowing fantastic views of Copenhagen and beyond. The sea plane excursion with Nordic Seaplanes was followed by a boat ride with Hey Captain- a more intimate boat excursion where you can talk with the captain offering a very personal way to cruise the canals.

Photo by Rolands Varsbergs

100% take a  guided food tour. Danish food wasn't particularly known globally until a new wave of chefs brought restaurants like Noma into international attention. Joining a Food Tour Copenhagen you’ll meet the  locals and be given local insight. There is so much diversity in Copenhagen’s food scene.   In 2021 14 of Copenhagen's restaurants had 23 Micheln stars between them!  I was fortunate to visit La Glace - the oldest patisserie in Denmark, Aamanns 1921 a famous Danish restaurant and the food markets at Tovehallerne.

Time in Copenhagen would not be complete without a visit to Tivoil Gardens, the oldest theme park in the world. 

My last evening was spent at the Balthazar champagne bar where they are renowned for their signature champagne cocktails - I had a Downton Abbey - very in keeping with the release of the new Downton Abbey movie recently released!

Swimming at Islands Brugge, Copenhagen

Swimming at Islands Brugge, Copenhagen

I could have done with a few more hours in this glorious capital - my last morning I headed to the area called Islands Brygge - which translates as Iceland’s Quay - a gorgeous stretch of waterfront where outdoor bathing and swimmers gather all year round. It was a magical experience for me.

 Karen travelled in April 2022 to Copenhagen in the company of Flospitality and stayed at D'Angleterre Hotel.  

I was thrilled to be invited for an action packed 2 night/ 3 day stay at the Evian Resort in France.

At the foot of the Alps, the Evian Resort is one the most prestigious resorts in the world. Only 45km from Geneva with its international airport, this oasis of calm boasts two luxury hotels, the recently renovated 5-star Hotel Royal and the 4-star Hotel Ermitage.

We flew to Geneva airport (a 75-minute flight time from London Heathrow with Swiss Air) and were met by the Evian resort team to be whisked by private vehicle to explore the Evian resort. Our first stop was the Hotel Royal which offers a breath- taking panorama of Lake Geneva and the French/Swiss Alps.

Hotel Royal: 5-star

Flagship of the Evian Resort, I was delighted to check in for my 2 night stay at the Hotel Royal, which is one of the most unique and luxurious hotels in the world, renowned as a place to get away from it all and recharge your batteries.  Set within 47 hectares of beautiful grounds, this exquisite 150-room property is just a 10-minute drive from Evian-Les-Bains and offers a Spa, wellness centre (sauna, hammam, hot tub), tennis courts, indoor/ outdoor swimming pools plus a first-class golf course located nearby. The stylish contemporary design of the hotel blends with the unique Belle Epoque architecture from the start of the 20th century and it was recently awarded ‘Palace’status.

Hotel Ermitage: 4-star

Next up was a tour of the Hotel Ermitage, which with its Anglo-Normand architectural style and elegantly designed 80 rooms and family suites is a charming property. Located in the heart of the Evian Resort, this family hotel is equipped with all the essentials to welcome children, and is dedicated to golf, relaxation and outdoor sporting activities for parents and their kids. They are also respectful towards nature too and the establishment has been labelled with ‘Earth Check’, the international ecological certification programme in the field of tourism.

Kids’ Resort 

As a mother of an energetic toddler I was eager to nosy around the on-site Kids’ Resort which is located between the two hotels. It welcomes children free of charge from the age of 3 years. The Kids’ Resort caters for 3 to 9 year olds and the Teens’ Resort 10 to 17 year olds. With a multitude of indoor/outdoor activities run by qualified activity leaders it is open every day all year round. There is a safe outdoor play area, indoor heated & supervised pool, activities room, rest room with board games and dance studio where they can channel all their exuberant energy! (There is also a Baby Resort catering for 4 month old to 3 years for which there is an additional charge).

Spa

Now it was time for some much needed pampering. The luxurious Spa Evian Source Centre features 2 pools, 1 aqua gym pool, a hammam, a sauna, a hot tub and fitness rooms. Guests also have access to indoor and outdoor tennis courts. With a huge array of treatments from facials to full body massages you can lie back in the hands of expert therapists and relax.

Michelin star restaurant: Les Fresques

The restaurant Les Fresques in the Hotel Royal has just been rewarded once again with a star by this year’s Michelin Guide 2022 so I was excited to sample some of their culinary delights in the evening. Exquisite course upon course appeared throught the ched, courtesy of the chef, paired with perfect wines. I had never tried asparagus ice cream, but somehow it worked and my taste buds were left tingling after this sensational meal.

Hiking in Thollon Des Mises, France

Next on the itinerary was a visit to Thollon-Les-Mémises, a village resort with a family atmosphere only a 20-minute drive away from the hotel. The resort has direct access to 50km of downhill skiing, with 14 marked pistes, served by a total of 18 ski lifts. It offers good skiing, particularly for intermediate and beginner skiers. Snow shoeing and paragliding are also an option. We enjoyed a lovely hike to a local viewpoint and then a splendid lunch to taste a Savoyard speciality of cheese fondue at the panoramic restaurant “Les Balcons du Lac” with breath-taking views of Lake Geneva.

Golf lesson with a Pro at the Evian Resort Golf club & Academy

I am not a golfer but this was a great chance to have a go and learn from a professional on one of the most beautiful courses in Europe. In each lesson players receives bespoke golf instruction focusing on drills and all golf shots, whilst varying distance and direction. I soon got the hang of it and they even filmed us to then analyse our swing angles and posture. ‘Keep your arms straight Zoe’ is still ringing in my ears. It was amazing to learn how to hit a golf ball cleanly and watch it sail into the air over the bunkers.

Lunch in Yvoire, France

Last on the itinerary was a wander through one of the most beautiful villages in France. Yvoire is a small but very romantic small town right on the French shores of Lake Geneva. This traffic-free village has managed to preserve much of its medieval look with town walls and gates, a historic castle, and narrow cobblestone streets. Yvoire is a beautiful town year-round but particularly attractive during spring and summer when it is filled with flowers blooming from seemingly every balcony and windowsill. 

(Zoe travelled in March 2022 and had an amazing 3 day trip thanks to the incredibly generous @masonrose, @hotelroyalevian and @evian_resort)

Travel Matters Travel Ambassador, Zoe, returns to her home-away-from-home…Sri Lanka. It has been a few years since Zoe has been back, but this time she is introducing her daughter to the Teardrop of India, known fondly by its people as Serendib.

Zoe documents her experiences thus far -

Firstly, we are beyond excited to be travelling long haul with our 2-year-old toddler for the first time ever and what better country to visit than Sri Lanka, which is incredibly family friendly. Our daughter, Islay, is obsessed with trains (choo choo) and so we were excited to make special memories with her and jump on a train to traverse the island.

The most popular and beautiful route is Kandy to Ella and the stretch of line from Haputale (through Bandarawela) has particularly stunning scenery. We did our research on train times and then boarded a local passenger train at Haputale, a small station in the heart of the hill country near to the eco-retreat Living Heritage Koslanda, our base for hill country exploration.

In Sri Lanka, you can book your train tickets up to 30-days advance. If like us you aren’t always the most organised, they release an allocation of tickets each morning at every train station so you can arrive with your driver and buy a ticket on the day (it’s very affordable!).

If you want reserved comfortable seats & A/C then 1st Class is the one for you, but there aren’t any open windows. Probably a good shout though for long journeys and the loos are…better.

2nd Class & 3rd Class reservations give you a chance to sit with other local folk and families (seats facing one another in groups of 4) and you get to be close to nature through open windows. Do note that these seats are less comfortable! The open vestibules at the end of each carriage give you a chance to walk about and sit by the open doorways to watch the world go by, which was right up our street as we wanted to mix with locals as much as possible. Be warned, 3rd Class toilets aren’t particularly lavish and the seats are more like benches, but if you’re on a strict budget and a short journey, 3rd Class is very doable.

In our carriage we met locals from all walks of life and religions - Islay got to play with other kids sat near us too. We loved the gentle speed of the train rocking as we moved through the undulating countryside and tea estates while observing cascading waterfalls in the distance. Local folk will jump on from time to time selling food so snacks to keep hunger at bay, so that was another highlight to watch.

After an unforgettable 1.5-hour journey we arrived at Ella, a pretty train station that is so quaint it has won the ‘Best-Kept Station’ award. It is like Thomas the Tank engine has come to life much to our daughter’s squealing delight! All in all, this is an opportunity not be missed and our toddler revelled in the chance to travel on a train, look at the fascinating outside world through open windows, interact with people and wander about letting off steam rather than be sat in a car for hours.

(Zoe travelled to Sri Lanka January & February 2022)

Maldives might be my favourite beach destination - vibrant colours, abundant marine life, closeness to nature, softest sand in the world - i just love everything about it. In addition, being spoilt with some of the most indulgent luxuries in the middle of the ocean feels almost sinfully good. 

Having been to several atolls in the past, my eyes were on South Ari for our latest trip in November, as swimming with whale sharks has always been on my bucket list. 

These gentle giants can be found all over the Maldives and indeed in all the tropical oceans of the planet, however South Ari Atoll is unique as this is the only year-round whale shark sighting site of its kind in the world!!! Whale sharks are not only the largest shark, but the largest of any fish alive today. 

Despite their intimidating appearance, they feed on plankton and travel long distances to find enough food to sustain their huge size. 

Being the largest fish in the world they could grow as large as 20m. We did our whale shark snorkelling trip on a traditional wooden Dhoni boat, where a tracker would spot a shark from a top deck and command us to jump into the water. Whale sharks often swim close to the surface of the water making snorkelling sightings possible for those who do not dive. We were incredibly lucky to have a huge shark swim only a couple of metres below us - an unforgettable feeling! Not to mention a huge variety of other fish and even turtles. That is why it is so important to travel. 

Upon arrival in the Maldives, all travellers get whisked away to their chosen resort either by boat, seaplane or a domestic flight transfer. Our destination was the beautiful Lily Beach. 

Without a doubt one of the highlights of your stay in the Maldives will be your seaplane journey to the resort - it almost feels like an excursion. Your 25-minute seaplane journey to Lily Beach with Trans Maldivian Airways will be an experience of its own – make sure you have your camera handy to capture those incredible images to share with friends and family of the turquoise waters surrounding the atolls from above. 

While you are waiting for your seaplane transfer, you are welcome to relax and enjoy the hospitality at Lily Beach’s air-conditioned lounge, and enjoy free drinks, snacks and wi-fi. 

This striking island is only 600m by 100m and has a cosy and friendly atmosphere even at full occupancy as there are only 125 Villas & Suites to choose from. We stayed in the coveted Deluxe water villa with a private pool and couldn’t be happier with our choice. The villa was very private, spacious and had all amenities we could possibly ask for including the ones you can’t buy, like beautiful sunsets! And the best thing of all - their vibrant house reef started right at our door step and ran along the whole perimeter of the island on both sides! I spent many happy hours snorkelling with reef sharks and exploring colourful coral and multiple species of fish. 

Lily Beach is a Platinum all-inclusive resort and this definitely takes all the pressure off in this notoriously pricy destination where every small thing needs to be imported from other countries.  

I consider myself something of a foodie and was completely blown away by the selection and quality of food presented at the resort's restaurants. Who could have thought that you could get over 20 varieties of French cheese and even fresh oysters on a tiny island in the Indian Ocean? 

Lily beach is a family friendly resort with a fantastic kid's club and facilities yet couples will feel equally happy as there is an adults-only pool with a bar attached to it. 

When the time came to leave, we were simply heart-broken. Thank you, Lily Beach, for taking such a good care of us! 

Maryna travelled to the Lily Beach in November 2021 - give her a call discuss your next holiday to the Maldives.

Photo by Sebastian Pena Lambarri on Unsplash

‘Let me just see the plane off, Torunn, then I’ll fetch your car, OK?’. We have just touched down at Hasvik airfield on Sørøya island, and in the arrival zone I’m perplexed to hear my name called out by a stranger. I turn around and a person – I’m assuming it’s Oddbjørn – smiles and waves. On Sørøya, Oddbjørn is the equivalent of Hertz and Avis. Together with my nephews Brage (16) and Kristian (11) and my sister Veronica, I have come to the island for the first time, with high hopes for some Big Fish Adventures. 

Sørøya is located north of Alta, west of Hammerfest in Troms & Finnmark, Norway’s northernmost county. It’s both the fourth largest island in Norway, and the biggest one to be unconnected to the mainland by road. Its intense summer green colors have given the island the name ‘The green eye in the North’, but this gem of a destination is increasingly known as ‘Storfiskens rike’ – Kingdom of the Big Fish. Surrounded by the deep Norwegian Sea and with more than 1200 freshwater lakes, this is a place full of improbable fishing stories, most of which are actually true. 

The High Road to a True Wilderness

Although we have chosen to arrive by air, Hasvik village can also be reached by car ferry or passenger ferry (LoppaXpressen) from Øksfjord – an embarkation port for Hurtigruten, located one hour and 40 minutes’ drive from Alta. The road from Hasvik (population 831) takes you through Breivikbotn (pop. 307) as far as Sørvær (pop. 239) 21 km away; by contrast, the villages on the island’s northern flank have no road connection to the south. That part of the island can be reached by passenger ferry (MåsøyXpressen) or car ferry from Hammerfest. The lack of road between north and south has prevented extensive (caravan) tourism on the island, helping to preserve the island’s authenticity, not to mention the wilderness at its core. 

Between 2017-20, the two local municipalities initiated a project with the Norwegian Trekking Association which resulted in the creation of a 100 km hiking trail from the mountain Fuglen in Sørvær to Tarhalsen in Akkarfjord (80 inhabitants and two camels). The path is marked with 15,000 red ‘T’s and 5000 ‘varder’ – stone cairns placed on high points in the terrain. The trek can be completed in 15-20 km stretches over a week, and introduces hikers to a rocky, mountainous landscape with steep slopes and rolling countryside, spectacular views, constantly changing weather conditions and temperatures in the neverending summer light. On this trip, however, we are not here to conquer the island on foot. 

Single Resource, Multiple Opportunities

In our chariot for the week, a 4WD Outlander, we drive the 1.4 km to our Sørøya home – a two-storey house by the sea featuring a pair of large terraces, direct harbour access and views reaching far across the sea to the towering peaks on the mainland. Kitted out with modern facilities and within easy walking distance to the town’s only grocery store, Rocky pub & dance bar, and the only restaurant, Håen Cafe & Bistro, we are well set up for the week! Which makes it all the easier to focus on our task for the week: to find out what kind of big fish are lurking underneath the surface of all this water surrounding us... 

We are given a warm welcome by Mona, Oddbjørn’s sister, who runs the local hotel and activity company with her 22 year old son Bilal and former husband Ahmad, who emigrated to Norway from Lebanon when he was 21. Over coffee on the porch, she shares her story and thoughts about the future for her family-run business. Mona does not want to attract huge numbers of guests and anglers to their beloved island; instead she wants to attract a smaller number of the right visitors, and on their terms. To meet the increasing interest in big fish adventures from a high-end clientele, the six units in Molokroken (where we are staying) will soon be supplemented with a new hotel building, designed by the internationally celebrated architects Snøhetta. This facility will be reconstructed from the original wood-framed fish factory on the harbour and will be retrofitted with a quayside sauna, restaurant, cafe and grocery shop.  

From the 1970s to the early 2000s, their hotel mainly catered to professionals from the commercial fishing industry. When three factories went bankrupt in 2002, the hotel lost most of its business and had to seek ‘new gold’ in order to make a living and keep its place on the island. Luckily, the proprietors soon realized that the fish was a resource that could be used in different ways to generate new business opportunities. With the help of professional recreational anglers Michal Simco and Marc von Roie, they set about rebuilding Sørøya’s image as a ‘Kingdom of the Big Fish’. Slowly but surely they succeeded in attracting anglers from all over the world. Today, the multitalented Bilal is the prime mover when it comes to developing their fishing activity business. Together with fellow anglers and marine recreational fishing (MRF) enthusiasts Daniel and Hans Kristian, Bilal has assembled valuable knowledge and insight about the best fishing spots, equipment, species, how to get big fish to bite, and methods that thrill anglers of all sorts, as well as encouraging good fish health and welfare while preventing negative impacts on fish stocks.

Marine Recreational Fishing - A brief introduction 

Norway is Europe’s biggest marine recreational fishing nation. (MRF is defined as ‘fishing for purposes other than meeting a basic nutritional need or for sale/trade’.) Why? It provides many health-promoting and wellbeing benefits, including powerful nature experiences, quality time with friends and family, and positive impact on the environment. The economic impact is also immense: MRF in Europe has been estimated to contribute around 10.5 billion euros while supporting 99,500 full-time jobs.

Because this recreational form of fishing often has limited regulation, it relies on responsible participants using best angling practices in order to minimize any negative impact on fish stocks. The rise of recreational fishing has led to greater awareness of many environmental issues around the ecology of fishing, with knock-on benefits to the local ecosystem. 

Our first Big Fish Adventure 

Daniel, our fishing guide, is well informed about all this research. He is also one of Norway’s best species-fishermen, despite his tender age of just 21. Like all of Big Fish Adventure’s guides, he is certified in coastal fishing, safety and crisis management. Dressed in Teletubby-like survival suits, we head out to sea. Our first mission: to catch pollock which will serve as bait for our main objective: the much larger halibut. 

Whereas national laws permit the landing of all halibut between 80-200 cm, the Big Fish Adventure crew releases all fish sized between 80-130 cm, and limits every guest to a maximum of two halibuts per trip. This is to secure the future halibut population and ensure Sørøya remains a world class fishing destination for future generations. Halibuts bigger than 130 cm – a common catch in these parts – are mostly female, and play an important role in species propagation. 

For those of us born and raised inland, hooking pollock so easily, while watching the breathtaking coastal scenery – the deep green island, turquoise water, coral beaches, small huts scattered across the mountainsides dropping into narrow fjords – is (almost) enough to make this trip worthwhile on its own. Daniel shares his knowledge with a contagious passion, and plays music which adds an entertaining diversion while covering the distances between fishing spots. For me personally, the whole thing is a healthy exercise in patience as we wait and wait for the big fish to bite. Hours pass, and when the halibut is finally hooked, we are in the last minutes of the sixth and final hour of our fishing adventure. 

The excitement onboard is immense and our patience is rewarded straight away. Slowly but surely, and to ecstatic cries, a 143 cm long halibut is coaxed to the surface and carefully lifted into the boat for observation, measurement and two quick trophy pictures, before being released back into the deep sea. Together with researcher Keno Ferter from the Institute of Marine Research, a lot of work has gone into finding the least harmful catch-and-release methods, and we are assured that the hole we’ve pierced through the fish’s skin near the jaw should heal within a week. High on adrenaline, we return to the shore full of experience and newly gained knowledge, inspired to explore further. 

Island Life - Therapy for Busy Minds

It’s not only in the deep sea around the island that fish can be found. More than 900 of Sørøya’s 1200 freshwater lakes are teeming with them. Many of the lakes can be accessed on spectacular hiking trails of varying lengths and levels. We spend our remaining days on leisurely hikes to lakes such as Krokvatnet and Bollevatn. On various occasions we get lost, wade across rivers, and follow forest and mountain paths with no mobile coverage. While fishing, we sit in the midst of impressive natural landscapes totally devoid of other people. Only the reindeer, frequently traversing the more remote areas, watch us like strangers in their domain. 

Sørøya is also known for its war history. Around the island are everal spectacular caves used as bolt-holes in the second world war by honorable northern Norwegians who refused to be deported by the German occupiers. One of these caverns, Kvithellhula, shaped by waves over millennia, was home to 35 refugees over 99 days in the winter of 1944-45. 

Despite the neverending daylight, slow life seems to travel fast, and we discover that one short week on the island is not enough.

Bespoke Travel 

Tailored Sørøya Island adventures can be curated for experienced anglers as well as beginners, or just anyone seeking a slow-paced escape holiday in spectacular surroundings. A week adventure (6 nights) in a harbourside Molokroken unit (6 person capacity), including two guided big fish adventures by boat, 4WD rental car at disposal, one guided island excursion with picnic, and one culinary Taste of Sørøya dinner experience, it priced from XXX USD per person based on 6 guests travelling together. 

Crossing Sørøya by Foot can be done with a private nature guide or as part of a small guided trekking group. Prices on request.

This guest blog was written by Torunn Tronsvang from UP Norway, one of our partners in Norway

A year ago, a Norwegian customer sent us an enquiry asking whether we could plan a journey for her through Reisa National Park. We had to ask her to ‘hold that thought’ for another year, so we could familiarise ourselves with this intriguing and remote part of the country – one of the few areas our team knew little about. 

On a winter trip to the area earlier this year, we were introduced to local insiders – professional activity providers – who were keen to facilitate journeys for our guests. Before I knew it, I had four travel companions booked to accompany me on a combined trekking and pack-rafting adventure, from Kautokeino to Reisa, over four days in summer.

Nordkalotten (The Arctic Trail) – Long distance hiking above the Arctic Circle

The Arctic Trail stretches over 800 km from Sulitjelma in Norway (Nordkalottruta) through Sweden (Nordkalottleden) to Kvikkjokk in Finland (Kalottireitti). Our goal for this year’s summer vacation was to venture along the route inside Reisa National Park, a virtually untouched natural landscape cut through by the Reisa, one of the world’s most bountiful salmon rivers. For me, what made this adventure especially attractive was the added cultural dimension: people of Norwegian, Sami and Kven origins have long used this National Park’s resources, and their unique folk cultures are reflected in the area.

Day 1: Biedjovággi to Reisavannet Lake (11 km / 4 hrs)

After a comfortable night at Kautokeino’s only hotel, where we were warmly greeted by our Sami friends Jon Mikkel and Odd Arne, we set off to the starting point just before Biedjovággi in the sunny morning light. The driver arrived just on (local) time – a Sami half hour late. Somewhere between Kautokeino and the starting point, we lost mobile coverage, and enjoyed the luxury of being disconnected from the world until reaching Reisa four days later. 

Slightly nervous about the notorious Finnmark mosquitos, we had stuffed our rucksacks with items of bite-resistant clothing as well as various repellents. Our fears turned out to have been exaggerated, yet the spray was effective, and the bugs graciously kept their distance. The trail followed reindeer fences and led us through marshland covered in cloudberries so that we could eat our way to our first camp, the summer house of the three-generation Sami Nilut family. 

Happiness can be felt in so many ways, and our stay with the Nilut family was no exception. Imagine a wood-fired sauna and tub in the freshwater lake, Reisavannet. Drinking a cold northern Norwegian beer on the terrace in the summer sun over attentive and humorous conversation, joiks (Sami folksong) and fortune-telling around the fire, a sumptuous meal of bidos (reindeer stew) and cloudberries, rounded off with a spot of fishing under the midnight sun. 

Day 2: Reisavannet to Nedrefoss via Imofossen waterfall (27 km / 10 hours) 

After a sumptuous breakfast with our Sami hosts, we embarked on the greatest challenge of this trip: the long hike from the mountain plateau, through birch and pine forest into the narrow Reisa valley and the narrow canyon surrounding the impressive Imo waterfall. After 23 km of hiking, I was the only one in our group motivated to make the 1 km detour to Imofossen. (Insider tip: this hike can be split in two, with a night at Arthurgamma cabin.) What makes this waterfall unique is the opportunity to gaze down at the 20 m high waterfall as it plunges over a granite cliff into a canyon and is met by a smaller tributary, Spanijohka. Together, these two waterfalls, as well as the surrounding rocky landscape and giant potholes, add up to a powerful sight.

When I reached the Nedrefoss cabin, my fellow hikers had already lit a fire in the rustic cabin managed by the Norwegian trekking association. We cooked our evening meal on the gas stove, and enjoyed a peaceful evening in the cabin, in the glow of candlelight and the unending summer light. Two of us still had enough energy to try out the adjacent river sauna and take a refreshing dip in the Reisa river, one of the clearest watercourses in Norway. It’s so clear that, from the suspension bridge leading to the cabin, you can spot the giant salmon swimming in the river below. 

Day 3: Nedrefoss to Siemma (3 km hiking, 14 km paddling) 

We were all excited by the idea of trying pack-rafting for the first time, and happy to meet up with our guide Steffen. He had brought with him fresh breakfast sandwiches and locally produced blueberry juice. After a brief introduction, we jumped into our single and double pack-rafts and set off downriver, with Steffen keeping an eye out for us from his riverboat. These craft were originally punts; these days they are motorized. 

Floating down the crystal-clear river, navigating through gentle rapids and watching the mountains rising high up on both sides of the canyon was a rewarding experience. We anchored up near the Mollisfossen waterfall – the largest and most popular attraction in Reisa. Only one other group of people (three people in total) were there at the same time as us. The falls here are 269 meters high, with a vertical drop of 140 m. We were able to walk right next to it and feel the ground shaking and the water spraying in our faces. On our return to the riverbank, Steffen had set out lunch on a white tablecloth by the fire, and served reindeer tortilla wraps with lingonberry sour cream and a local rhubarb cordial. For dessert: smoked dried reindeer and fresh cinnamon rolls accompanied by bonfire-brewed coffee from the local beanery.

Upon reaching Siemma we settled into our small wooden cabin and cranked up the heat to dry our clothes. Two of our party had capsized in the pack-rafts and ‘enjoyed’ an involuntary river dip – to gales of laughter. We spent the evening outside by the fire, playing cards, reading, chatting and indulging in the goodie bag of food, drinks and snacks Steffen had left for us. We took the rowing boat across the river to see the rock art dating back to the Bronze Age (1800 BCE). It is believed that the special rock formation where the drawings were made was perceived as a portal through which shamans could connect with the dead. 

Day 4, Siemma to Saraelv (10 km paddling), onwards to Reisastua Lodge

In the morning, Steffen appeared with Kalla, a new guide who would accompany us down the final stretch of the river. We stopped at a beach to grill sausages on the fire, and enjoyed the last day of absolutely perfect hiking and paddling weather: not too warm, not too cold, a little wind to keep the mosquitos away, sunny with a few clouds to prevent sunburn. We were picked up in a white Hummer by the owner of Reisastua Lodge and checked into suites overlooking the river. In Sami-inspired robes we found our way to the rooftop jacuzzi and toasted our trip with glasses of champagne. And then sat down to plan our next adventure... 

This guest blog was written by Torunn Tronsvang from UP Norway, one of our partners in Norway

The Planet is in the midst of a crisis and it’s now or never!

Europeans have been conscious of adverse weather conditions in parts of America, Australia and the Antarctic for decades. Being constantly inundated about the Antarctic Ice Melt, rising sea levels, California wild fires and much more, many Europeans haven’t necessarily witnessed the sheer ferocity & magnitude of accumulation of generations ill effects on our ecosystems.

Photo Credit - Matt Palmer

During the summer of 2021 you would have read about the raging fires that swept their way, most notably, through Turkey and Greece. Maybe you were personally exposed to the monsoon-type weather & flooding that besieged the British Isles. These, and countless other instances, are examples of Mother Earth literally weeping!

Photo Credit - Kelly Sikkema

With Nature at a tipping point and in emergency, we are placing all life and planetary health in jeopardy. This coming decade has to be a turning point where we collectively pull together as a community and recognise the value of nature. As a group of responsible citizens, we need to place nature & biodiversity on the pathway to recovery and transform our world to one where people, economies and nature flourish.

Travel Matters is therefore excited to announce our collaboration with the Get Nature Positive project, whose overall aim is to continue to gain knowledge & improve positive impact on the Planet. Get Nature Positive is attempting to achieve this by working alongside a selection of Organisations who put the onus on International Governments, by asking them to implement a set of goals at international level that have been constructed by The G7. From there, it is the responsibility of these Governments to enact this message into a framework (The UN’s Convention on Biological Diversity Post 2020) that will trickle down through their country’s society and change the way that the private sector and communities can help the Planet’s rejuvenation.

The Group of Seven (G7) is an inter-governmental political forum that is made up of Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, the U.K. and the United States. Their formation was devised in order to provide solutions to continued multilateral discourse and form political answers to global challenges. G7 leaders called for the world to become Net Zero and ‘Nature Positive’ in July 2021, releasing the following statement –

“We, the G7 Leaders, commit to the global mission to halt and reverse biodiversity loss by 2030. We will act now, building on the G7 Metz Charter on Biodiversity and the Leaders’ Pledge for Nature, championing their delivery, to help set the necessary trajectory for nature to 2030.”

The G7 & and their 2030 Nature Compact produced a set of four pillars that would assist governments to achieve these goals -

• Pillar One, Leading the Transition to sustainable and legal use of natural resources:

We will shift incentives and use all appropriate levers to address unsustainable and illegal activities negatively impacting nature.

• Pillar Two, Investing in nature and driving a nature positive economy:

We will work to dramatically increase investment in nature from all sources, and to ensure nature is accounted for, and mainstreamed, in economic and financial decision-making.

• Pillar Three, Protecting, Conserving and Restoring nature, including through ambitious global targets:

We will support and drive the protection, conservation and restoration of ecosystems critical to halt and reverse biodiversity loss and environmental degradation, and to tackle climate change.

• Pillar Four, Prioritising Accountability and implementation of commitments for nature:

We will hold ourselves to account for taking domestic and global action for nature.

Photo Credit - Markus Spiske

What can I do to help?

Get Nature Positive have streamlined this approach and created a list of actions & challenges that can be successfully implemented into any of the following sectors:

• Buildings & Infrastructure

• Fashion

• Finance

• Food Retail

• Tourism

• Water

…just click on ‘Your Industry Sector’. Here, you will find suggestions that can help you & employees realise how to reduce single-use plastics, education about nature-friendly sunscreens, redesigning products to use recycled materials, how to incentivise your supply chain and much more. We don’t have much time left, so it’s crucial that we all adopt more sustainable practices and endorse the likes of The Council for Sustainable Business (CSB) and their Get Nature Positive initiative.

Photo Credit - Annie Spratt

Our actions are destroying nature at a rate that is faster than can replenished and we bear witness to the effects of how this is destabilising our societies. Due to an unrelenting degradation of our natural planet, we face such challenges as the loss of over half the global GDP and human lives & wellbeing…remember, the poorest and most vulnerable are always affected the worst! The climate crisis is symbiotically connected to the nature crisis and both need to be addressed simultaneously, so that there can be an evolution that sees a nature-positive, carbon-neutral future.

Your voice can be heard here! 

There is no doubt that South Africa has had a torrid time since the Covid-19 pandemic took hold, exacerbating many of their pre-existing social and economic challenges. With unprecedented job losses, the extended health crisis, political flare-ups, and food insecurity that affects up to 2,5 million people every day, the result is a battle-scarred national psyche, as they struggle to hold onto any sense of optimism and positivity.

Countering this pervasive negativity, an inspired collective of purpose-pioneers believe they have a positive contribution to make. “We had to do something to dissolve despair and make hope our emotional fuel for a brighter tomorrow. We can rebuild South Africa together if we believe it in our heads and feel it in our hearts” says entrepreneur Tom Fels, who along with several collaborators, founded the social impact initiative, Grow Hope.

Designed as a shared-value platform, Grow Hope leverages the power of creativity to improve national sentiment, by uniting artists and brand sponsors to seed city artworks with messages of hope and togetherness, showcased on large scale billboards as part of a national, synchronised outdoor media campaign.

Post use, the material from these hope-billboards are recycled into vegetable grow-bags by Growbag Upcycled, a social enterprise, and are distributed to food security NGO’s that administer community agriculture training in Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg, along with financial support for their work.

It’s an approach that Fels describes as ‘brand good’, offering corporate sponsors the benefit of branded exposure on artworks created by South Africa’s hottest design talent - from street artist Keith Vlahakis, to Mandela Rhodes Foundation designer Vumile Mavumengwana and young fashion design maven Ishaarah Arnold – together with the downstream impact of providing the recycled materials and support to community NGO’s. This straddles both brand marketing and CSI – with mutual benefit for every Rand spent.

“To start an allied movement, everyone needs the motivation and incentive to participate. We’ve architected the initiative to ensure that we create win-win-win opportunities for all stakeholders, from the artists, brands and media owners to the social enterprise and NGO’s that have joined us to grow hope”.

With access to a national network of billboard sites through initiative partner Tractor Outdoor, Grow Hope is positioned to reach up to 10 million South Africans. “The potential impact of seeing colourful and inspiring artworks every day to brighten an otherwise gloomy outlook gives us all a great sense of motivation” says Fels. It is a sentiment being shared early on by corporate partners, who see the timing of this initiative as necessary. It is the contributions of these partners that activates the for-good ecosystem, putting the citizen back in corporate-citizenship. Fels is keen to build a growing network of nation-building brands to sustain and fuel the movement.

Optimistic young Grow Hope Creative Ambassador, Tennessee Barber, whose design work is included among the founding pieces, describes hope as ‘colourful and alive with possibility’. Her sentiments are echoed by fellow design contributor Jesse Yende, founder of NPO “The South Africanist” and creative activist for positive community impact.

“If we can disrupt everyday monotony with flashes of hope and unity that register a response, then we can inspire people to own their role in building a brighter future. That’s a South Africa we all want to be a part of.

Check out their website for more information www.growhope.co.za

When we think of Greece we imagine island life and blue, blue seas all around us – but did you know that Greece is the third most mountainous country in Europe? Having been to Greece several times in the past, I thought it was high time I made my way to the country’s spectacular verdant interior finishing the holiday off with a few days on a beach.

We landed at the small airport of Preveza and picked up a car for the duration of our trip. Roads throughout were excellent – a good mix of picturesque local streets, mountain tunnels and toll motorways. This wasn’t a boring monotonous drive at all!

Our first stop was the iconic Meteora – I was dying to see it for years! The word Meteora means literally 'hovering in the air'. 

What becomes quite obvious is that it is not only a man-made wonder but also that of nature – the rocks are totally unique for the area and look very different compared to other mountainous formations around them.

Without a doubt Meteora with its monasteries perched on the very top is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Greece and it is incredible to even imagine what human resources it must have taken to build them.

The area was originally settled by monks who lived in caves within the rocks during the 11th century. But as the times became more unsettled during an age of Turkish occupation, they climbed higher and higher up the rock surface until they were living on the inaccessible peaks.

They built these monasteries by bringing materials and people up with ladders and baskets. One of the monasteries we visited had carved stairs leading inside the rock with a door shutting intruders off – not dissimilar to a fortress!

The place is highly recommended for visiting, especially for pilgrims and people interested in religion - the atmosphere of each monastery is very special and peaceful. Make sure to wear respectable clothing, covering knees and shoulders. 

Our second stop was beautiful Tzoumerka national park, occupying an area of about 820 km2 and boasting mountainous complexes, the Arachthos River gorge and the springs of the Acheloos River.

The park is home to  a  lot  of  endemic  species  of  plants and rare & protected species of mammals such as the otter, deer, brown bear, the wild goat as well as about 145 species of birds. We had to stop our car a couple of times and let tortoises cross the road safely!  

The National Park also houses an enormous outdoor folklore museum of stone bridges, cultural monuments and traditional settlements – all working in unique harmony with beautiful landscapes, dramatic mountains, gorges and  caverns. 

Our main aim was to experience white water rafting down the Arachatos river gorge. What an enjoyable experience it was! You can hike along the river too but just floating down and enjoying the stunning sceneries all around us was our day activity of choice.

The river is quite tame in summer so no previous experience is needed, however if you desire more of an action-filled experience, come here in February or March when the water level is substantially higher.

Staying in the mountains was such a treat and a contrast to the coast – mornings and evenings were crisp and refreshing and we even experienced a little rain to cool us down.

This really is a unique part of Greece and I am so pleased we got to finally experience it. 

Maryna traveled to Greece in July 2021, give her a call to discuss your holiday

Header Image by Georger Tasios from Unsplash