Lanzarote, the most northern of the Canary Islands has year-round sunshine, gorgeous beaches and an out of this world volcanic landscape. It also has some rather unusual accommodation choices. I was there is mid-March, a last-minute booking in an effort to escape the endless rain and although I'm not one to camp, when offered the opportunity to stay a few nights in a luxurious yurt, I couldn't say no. 

Owned by Tila and Michelle Braddock, Lanzarote Retreats incorporates a collection of hand-picked, stylish properties. The founding ethos is simple: Guests don’t have to forsake modern facilities, rich comforts and concepts of luxury to have a responsible and sustainable holiday experience. Their flagship is Finca de Arrieta eco-village in the northeast of the island with seventeen yurts, villas and cottages. Set on the edge of a tranquil village close to the pretty beach of La Garita, Finca de Arrieta has spectacular sea and mountain views, a solar-powered pool and chill-out areas, veg patch, chickens for fresh eggs and even resident donkeys.

The land at Finca de Arrieta was part of working farmland for many years. Tila and Michelle (originally from the UK but Lanzarote residents since the 1990s) acquired the site in 2005, with a vision to purchase the land and create a utopia where their family could live off-grid and in the most sustainable way possible. The restoration project began with what is now the Eco-Luxury Villa, which was completed in 2006.  One of the guests enquiring about the Villa requested a third bedroom and Tila had the idea of installing a yurt. From this, the yurt kitchen and shower room were added along with a fenced garden. Creating the first yurt holiday home.

All seventeen-holiday yurts, villas and cottages at Finca de Arrieta are off-grid and the Finca is powered by the largest green energy system on the islands. In 2018 a desalination plant was added so that Finca De Arrieta could draw its own drinking water from the well and finally become fully sustainable. Other sustainable measures include providing a refill water station to help reduce the number of plastic bottles needing recycling and encouraging guests to wash with environmentally friendly products so that wastewater can be re-used for the plants. Any food waste goes to the Finca animal residents too, with guests encouraged to collect the chicken’s eggs for free by way of exchange. Holiday extras such as Toyota Hybrid cars can be arranged on request. And it's not just Finca de Arrieta: Lanzarote Retreats has other accommodation dotted around the island and the business wholeheartedly embraces the mantra of supporting local tradesmen and organisations. 

My home, Eco Yurt Royal proudly holds the title of the largest yurt on the finca, too big for one person but often booked by couples who like a lot of private space. It was meticulously crafted to an exceptional standard, very boho chic with Moroccan and Indonesian furnishings and featuring a private walled terrace, garden and raised gazebo. The latter an ideal setting for alfresco dining.  There was no shortage of organised activities: from on-site yoga, Pilates and massages, to paella nights and day trips to nearby attractions.

However, it's always going to be the swimming pool that I'm most interested in (I often choose accommodation purely based on the pool) and it was the finca's white washed lagoon style pool inspired by local legend Cesar Manrique that got the biggest thumbs up. Admittedly not very big but the aesthetics made it stand out from the crowd and reminded me of the pools at The Cesar Manrique foundation (Manrique's former home) and Jameos del Agua. You can't visit Lanzarote without seeing the art installations of the island's most famous son.  Lanzarote's landscape is unique, so much so that UNESCO has given the whole island World Biosphere Reserve status, in order to protect it. Be sure to see the Fire Mountains in Timanfaya National Park, it really is like something from another planet, children will love it and think they are stepping on the moon. For adults, a wine tour with Wine Tours Lanzarote is highly recommended. Against a backdrop of black ash soil with grapes grown in thousands of pits shielded by semi-circular stone walls, built around a single vine, these are like no other vineyards I've ever seen.  This cultivation technique protects the vines from the wind and keeps the humidity consistent. At Bodega Los Bermejos I tasted some fine wines from malvasía, muscatel and listán grapes. After a morning tour an afternoon snooze on a sunbed was definitely called for and at my next hotel, Seaside Los Jameos I had the perfect poolside view to sleep of the excess.

Seaside Los Jameos is another luxurious family favourite and made for a nice contrast with Finca de Arrieta. Located on a small, beach-lined promontory at the edge of the Playa de los Pocillos resort. It’s a quiet spot, within easy reach of Puerto Del Carmen’s lively old town (about a 45-minute walk away), shopping area, restaurants, and nightlife and just a five-minute drive from the airport. Launched in the 1990s with 530 rooms designed in the signature style of the island by pupils of Cesar Manrique and recently refreshed by London-based Muza Lab. It's very family-friendly with a kid's club, kiddies pool, spa and wellness centre and home to the Peter Burwash International tennis school. Nothing beats a welcome than a refreshing glass of bubbly cava and a light, airy room, all high ceilings and clean blue and white colours with a balcony looking over a sparkling lagoon style, palm fringed pool. The signature yellow striped umbrellas adding a touch of Californian style and the subtropical plants and ruby bougainvillea a splash of colour. Although minutes away, the hotel is a world away from some of the more cheap and cheerful resorts on the Puerta del Carmen strip, the latter is after all one of the most popular resorts in Lanzarote. I've stayed at dozens of all-inclusives but Los Jameos stood out for the quality, quantity and variety of the food served.  At both lunch and dinner there was a very impressive buffet, with chefs grilling fresh local seafood, steaks, a salad bar that seemed to stretch to several tables and then when I thought I'd had my fill, I'd discover another section offering some kind of themed cuisine, Mexican and Italian during my stay. The hotel is enormously popular with many repeat guests, and although tables were sometimes difficult to find, there was a never a queue at the buffet. 

Once I'd had more than my fill, it was time for my lengths in one of the two lagoon pools and I was thankful that one of them was heated, a big plus during the cooler months.  Seaside Los Jameos is a certified sustainable hotel, an independent organisation has officially certified the hotel as sustainable for meeting the criteria set by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC). Just a few of the practices the hotel has to follow to be certified as sustainable include reducing energy, water and waste, sourcing products locally, supporting local communities and using reusable, returnable and recycled products.  The hotel is also a Travelife Sustainable Tourism Gold Award holder #MakeTravelMatter

Finca de Arrieta is a great example of rural Eco-Tourism on Lanzarote. A Bohemian retreat where you can feel comfortable but still connected to nature. It's in the less explored north but if you’re looking for a top-notch all-inclusive oozing style and character, then I can highly recommend Seaside Los Jameos. It’s already a firm favourite with families who return year after year, combine with a couple of nights at Finca de Arrieta and you have a perfect combination.

Lanzarote is an ideal October half term or Winter Sun destination, if you need assistance in planning a trip, make an enquiry today.

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matters’ Communication Officer. She visited Lanzarote in March 2024. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd, Finca de Arrieta - Eco Retreat, Jameos del Agua, Seaside Los Jameos and Turismo Lanzarote.)

We travelled to the Indian Ocean to visit the island of Mauritius, where the sun-kissed beaches, vibrant culture and warm hospitality beckon the discerning traveller. Here’s a glimpse at an 8-day itinerary...

A direct flight from London to Mauritius is around 12-hours and there are numerous carriers available, including; Air Mauritius, British Airways and Emirates. Upon landing at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, you will recognise that Mauritius’s international airport is a modern hub that is also appropriately sized for the footfall of holidaymakers this gem in the Indian Ocean receives.

We wanted to explore the island at our own leisure for the first few days, so we opted to rent a car with a local provider, Pingouin Car Rental*. The car rental kiosk is metres from the airports exit…it’s therefore impossible not to find! We had researched car rentals thoroughly before leaving and opted for Pingouin Car Rental due to its affordability and reviews. We were not disappointed! We were greeted by the cheery proprietor, Mr. Iqbal (whose name is heavily featured amongst prominent online reviewing systems). He helped us complete our paperwork and then escorted to our Suzuki S-Presso, which was more than capable when navigating Mauritius’s sound infrastructure. Within 45-miuntes of disembarking the plane, we were on the road.

(*‘Pingouin Car Rental’ picked up our car 3 days later, when we were in-resort, saving us the effort of having to drive to one of their local depots. Well worth the additional cost of around £15-20, which included petrol.)

Prior to our arrival, Mauritius had experienced its second cyclone of the year. During these periods, which tend to last a week, the island practically goes into lockdown. Upon arriving, we were greeted by some overcast weather, but the temperatures remained within the high twenties. The weather forecast suggested that we would have a week of intermittent showers and pockets of good weather, however this was not the case. Most mornings it rained from 04:00 to 06:00, but after that we were greeted by a full day of glorious sunshine (a minimum of factor 30 sun cream is therefore advised). It is always worth noting that the sun's rays are strongest the closer you get to the equator. This is due to the sun being directly overhead and as a result, UV rays travel shorter distances through the atmosphere. We always like to make it known that the weather in the Indian Ocean is unpredictable - it could be the middle of peak season (e.g. January and February) and you could still experience heavy rainfall.

Our journey started in Tamarin, named after the Tamarind trees which use to grow in abundance amongst this village. Today, Tamarin is noted by surfers as an unpredictable wave protected bay on the west side of the island, so it doesn't break too often (ideal for beginner surfers who are in need of a gentle lesson). Watching on from the beach, you can enjoy surfers catching waves well into the evening and even during the sunset. Our first full day saw us take to the ocean on a Catamaran Tour - the allure of Mauritius extends far beyond its azure waters, beckoning us to explore its hidden treasures during our expedition. Here, amidst the rhythmic sway of the boat and the melody of the ocean, we embarked on a voyage of discovery, swimming with dolphins in their natural habitat and basking in the splendour of Crystal Rock and Ile Aux Benitier, where marketers sell local trinkets and drinks served out of freshly carved coconuts. As we anchored at this pristine isle, we are greeted by a symphony of colours – the emerald green of the lush vegetation, the sapphire blue of the sky and the pristine white of the sandy beaches. All of this created a tableau of unmatched beauty that secured the feeling of being in paradise.

During our second full day, we woke at the crack of dawn and drove down to La Balise Marina and were met by Antoine & Wilson of Ocean Brothers Mauritius. Within minutes of setting off on a powerboat, with 8 other explorers, it wasn’t long before our Skipper and Whale Expert had plunged a hydrophone into the water in an attempt to detect some gentle seafaring giants. With a set of ‘thumbs up’ and a sense of enchantment, it was really then that we set sail on this whale watching and swimming tour. After several attempts to locate a resting family and over an hour riding deeper into choppier waters, we had our first mesmerising encounter with a Sperm Whale. With bated breath, we watched on in awe as the majestic whale breached the surface, their slow & graceful movements painting a picture of pure grace against the backdrop of the endless sea. And when the time was ripe, we plunged into the crystalline waters, embracing the thrill of swimming alongside these beautiful creatures. Over 3-hours at sea and we we managed three dives alongside different pods.

(During the experience, we were equipped with masks, snorkels and fins – all of which are completely necessary as you are fighting off 6-foot waves and creature that moves surprisingly fast considering its size. Our experts were enthusiastic about animal welfare and stressed the importance of keeping our distance and applying to their strict rules.)

During the next days, when we had returned to land, we delved into the heart of Mauritius, exploring its vibrant cities and charming villages. In Grand Baie, we lost ourselves in the bustling markets and chic boutiques, indulging in a shopping spree that found us brushing shoulders with the friendly locals. In Port Louis, we immersed ourselves in the rich tapestry of Mauritian culture, wandering through the historic streets and savouring the tantalising flavours of the local street cuisine. And in Flic en Flac, we surrendered to the allure of the sun-drenched beaches, where time stands still and worries fade away in the gentle embrace of the ocean breeze.

Throughout our break in Mauritius, we found solace and sanctuary at the exquisite Victoria Beachcomber, a 4-star resort noted for its refinement and cheerful staff. Nestled along the pristine shores of Pointe aux Piments, this idyllic retreat offers a combination of comforts and conveniences, from elegant accommodations adorned with plush furnishings and modern amenities to a wealth of facilities designed to pamper and rejuvenate the body and soul. Here, amidst the lush gardens and swaying palm trees, we surrendered to the rhythm of island life, indulging in sumptuous dining experiences, rejuvenating spa treatments and a selection of recreational activities that promise to delight and fulfil your every day.

Toward the end of our stay, we embarked on a scuba diving excursion with a PADI qualified school, attached to the beach of the Victoria Beachcomber resort. We were asked for our PADI certification number and debriefed on some of the key points of diving and found the instructors to be very helpful. We hopped on a powerboat and it wasn’t long before we descended into the depths, where a kaleidoscope of marine life unfolded before our eyes. Majestic octopuses gracefully glided past, their movements captivating our senses. We encountered Scorpion Fish camouflaged among the coral, their intricate patterns blending seamlessly with their surroundings. Stealthy Stonefish lurked in the shadows, a testament to nature's camouflage mastery. The vibrant hues of Lionfish added a pop of colour to the underwater landscape, their flowing fins a sight to behold. And then, a moment of serenity as a gentle turtle awoke from its slumber and glided by, its ancient wisdom evident in its tranquil demeanour. Each encounter is a reminder of the awe-inspiring beauty and diversity of the underwater world, leaving an indelible imprint on our hearts and minds.

We found that Victoria Beachcomber was the perfect base for recuperation during our 8-days of activities and adventure. Victoria has everything you need to truly relax, including swimming pools, water sports, tennis courts, a gym, gym classes and multiple bars & restaurants. But perhaps the true magic of Victoria Beachcomber is not its pristine beaches or airily comfortable rooms & suites, but in the warmth and hospitality of its people. Throughout our stay, we were embraced by the genuine kindness and generosity of the Mauritian staff, who welcomed us with open arms and open hearts, inviting us to share in the beauty and bounty of their island home.

(The resort will shortly be commencing a minor refurbishment, which should be finished by October 2024.)

Upon departure, as we bid farewell to Mauritius, we were reminded that true luxury lies not in the extravagance of material possessions, but in the richness of experiences shared and connections forged, in the moments of wonder and awe that remind us of the boundless beauty and possibility of the world around us. And in Mauritius, we have found all this and more – a paradise of luxury, a sanctuary for the soul and a treasure trove of memories waiting to be discovered.

(Matt visited Mauritius in March 2024, courtesy of our partners at Beachcomber Tours.)

I ended my travelling through East Africa between August and October 2022 by visiting three Community-Based Tourism (CBT) projects in Kenya.

Differently from the other stories I have contributed here, this time I feel the need to go deeper into one of the grassroots experiences I had there. This is the tale of my first indigenous community visit in Kenya, one that touched me very profoundly as a woman, and a story which I know I won’t get tired of telling – at least not until I pay them another visit.

Following Noltiga Pere on the dry riverbed

Walking Meditation

She looked directly into my eyes and softly spoke some words in her own language; her eyes were sparkling. She then asked for the help of Rosemary to translate her request. She wanted to show me something. She waited for my smile of approval and started walking slowly in front of me. We left the small group of the other women behind, still in the presentation circle that my host Rosemary organised for me upon my arrival at the CBT project an hour earlier.

Noltiga Pere is a slender woman, and her long legs made her steps faster than mine. She noticed that and often turned over her shoulder to check on me when she showed me around. First, she pointed into the distance at the massive rock that was the reference point my driver used to orient himself and find his way here. The rock looked like a composition made of three giant 3D puzzle pieces, placed gently onto each other and kept in balance in that weird position by some strong invisible glue.

Her steps were calm but solid, holding the same energies that I had perceived in her eyes since our first contact. The red and black chequered blanket she wore around her shoulders – as is the custom with her people – was undulating in front of me like a magic flying carpet, showing me the way on the arid, reddish soil.

I soon realised that we were walking on a riverbed, and the vegetation on its banks showed evident signs of drought. I was trying hard to understand why I was there, why she had taken me there, and what I was missing. Lost in my thoughts, I was struggling with the lack of common language and the urgent need to say something: ask questions, share my thoughts or comment on what was around us. I didn’t notice the same struggle in her, though – she seemed unconcerned with the absence of words.  My attempts to contribute with words quickly vanished as I began to appreciate the silent, welcoming tour she had gifted to me.  

As soon as my mind went quiet, new sounds and images appeared. Pebbles creaking under the pressure of my feet; black and white birds gliding around, surfing on smooth waves of wind; stripes of pink rising in the sky. One step followed another. Every sound became strangely amplified as if someone had added a noise cancellation effect to the scene. Suddenly I realised that the answers I was anxiously looking for in my head, might have been just there, under my nose, all the time.

Noltiga Pere

She was an empowered woman, simply caring for her new Sicilian guest. Only an empowered and self-confident woman, in fact, would have taken a stranger for a walk around her place without the worry of being judged or misunderstood. Perhaps she was simply doing what seemed a normal thing for her: acting on her kindness.

In the next couple of days, I would discover that she was not the only one holding that power in her, but that she shared that power with all her community. During the meetings and the workshops I would have with the other women, in the shade of the big acacia trees in their cultural manyatta, I would discover the reasons why this was and how different it used to be.

Adding Layers of Meaning

Over the years, I have worked with local communities in Brazil and Rwanda, and I was in contact with many other indigenous communities in Latin America, as well as the African and Asian continents. Due to my profession and the type of engagement I create with communities, I often encounter stories of women empowerment. The more I travel and visit indigenous and rural communities, the more the concept grows new layers of meaning in the pages of my vocabulary, especially when intertwined with Community-Based Tourism practices.

The Twala Tenebo project contributed to this with a strong realisation; it taught me that women empowerment can simply mean having the chance to express which parts of one’s culture can be accepted, without denying others, but most importantly, while strengthening rather than losing one’s identity.

The Project

Twala Tenebo is a women-owned-and-led Community-Based Tourism (CBT) project established in 1998 in the Laikipia region, Northwest of Mount Kenya. It is run on a piece of land that the women, after years of requests, community meetings and discussions, were eventually able to buy from the men in their community – for whom the ownership of land is traditionally exclusively reserved. On this vast piece of land, they have built the basis of what I think is a small cultural revolution, creating new paths for their own empowerment.

The walk with the baboons, the bee-keeping project, the organic production of aloe vera, the traditional singing and dancing and the original beadwork creation they design and sell to the travellers. These are a few of the tourism activities run directly by the women and offered through the project. Enjoyable and entertaining for the visitors, the activities and the other micro projects developed on the premises bring unimaginable opportunities for the local women as well. Having spent time with them, I can tell that what the visitors see represents only the tip of the iceberg of the real value that the project brings to its protagonists.

I am an Entrepreneur now!

The opportunity for self-empowerment came to them, first and foremost, by having a place to go outside of their homes, where they could gather with other women. Here they share their struggles as well as new ideas and – as they showed me – they also learn and pass on new skills among themselves. Today they see themselves as unfanibiaxara (Business Women), ‘owning and milking their own cow’, as vividly expressed by one of the women. Today they are financially independent from their husbands and able to choose their own destiny.

(Pictured Above: Discussion during the Community Storytelling Workshop Elisa organised at Twala Tebebo)

‘I am an entrepreneur now, I know how to run my own business’, says Joyce, arms crossed in front of her chest, projecting a satisfied smile. She is the lady who carefully dressed me up with their traditional rope and homemade jewellery, shortly after I left my luggage in my bungalow. I remember I felt like I was the subject of an official coronation. My smile spread from ear to ear for hours. Joyce’s destiny was decided when she was born. As the first daughter, she had the ‘privilege’ of receiving the baton and continuing the profession that her mother, in turn, had learnt from her mother. She was the ‘community doctor’ responsible for performing the Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) procedure on other women. In the community that is a notable job, and it is also very lucrative. That was part of the cultural tradition she belongs to, and was literally born into. In the past, it was unthinkable that this would ever change or to even think that it could be any different. But now, things are slowly beginning to change.

Together, we laugh!

Togetherness (Tenebo in the Ma language) was the bell (Twala) that gave them new eyes on their own culture from a safe distance, from which they could recognise limits and potential, but also find the courage to plant new seeds for the next generation of female warriors. When I asked them what the project meant to them, they answered that it brought them together, quite literally. Before this, they had little or no time to visit each other’s homes or spend time together. ‘Before,’ they continued, ‘We were meeting only for weddings or other celebrations. Now we meet each other here – and some of us, including Noltiga Pere, live here in the huts we built – and we laugh together.’

Today they don’t need to continue being passively exposed to the practice of FGM, which sadly is still carried out in some remote villages in Kenya. They recognise now that this is a violation of their human rights, but this has been a process. Rosemary, who initially invited me, is the strong and tireless leader of this project. It is she who has faced and argued, with endless determination, with the traditional male powers in her communities. It is also she who has had long and sensitive conversations with the women about their health, safety, sexual education and basic rights.

With her sweet, high-pitched voice and a constant smile on her face, I hear her saying loudly with all her inner strength, ‘I am a proud Maasai woman,’ and without falling into any spiritual contradictions she can declare, ‘I love my cultural roots, but this [practice] is not right.’

Together, we sing!

Step by step, on that uneven ground, in those last few hours of light of that October afternoon, with warm colours gradually painting the horizon behind the acacia trees, I kept following the rhythm of my Maasai lady guide. Moving slowly on the riverbed next to footprints left by the elephants the day before, the calm and steady pace of her footsteps became mine, and we continued walking together.

Every time she turned to me to show me the place with her gentle smile, I saw her pride mixed with curiosity about me, and a steady openness that comes only from someone who has walked on many unstable roads and can now stand on the solid ground which she has built for herself – but not alone.

Together, we grow!

“As a part of the Travel Matters team of Travel Advisors, I would love to share my knowledge on Community-Based Tourism and help you tailor your next responsible trip to Kenya and of course, plan your visit to Twala Tenebo Cultural Manyatta”

If you want to contact Elisa, please feel free to make an Enquiry today!

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

In the second part of Elisa’s journeys through Uganda, she starts her day by with some exciting wildlife encounters!

Wild animals crossing the tarmac roads is quite a common sight in rural Uganda. Beyond the usual pedestrians – extremely longhorn cows and goats – solitary pigs were also spotted in front of the car I was travelling in. There were goats taking a nap in the middle of the road on my way from Kampala to Murchison Falls NP, but I realised that it was 5am when we drove by, so perhaps they were not expecting passers-by at that time.

Although I was expecting a series of wildlife crossings inside the NP – as had happened in Akagera NP, in Rwanda – the hippo I met on my way to the entrance to Queen Elizabeth NP was literally a massive surprise. Still, in time for a late lunch break, this hippo was rushing to the other side of the street for easy access to the north bank of the Kazinga channel, to find greener pastures. It was a bit unusual to see one of them at that time (around 6.30am), in fact, although the sun had not risen yet; hippos usually feed at night, because their skin is very sensitive to the sun and cracks very easily, unless in water or covered by mud.

Hippo Spa – Queen Elizabeth NP

Uganda’s second largest NP, Queen Elizabeth, extends to almost 1,978 km2 and has an extraordinary diversity of landscape that ranges from grassland to acacia woodland, tropical rainforest to swampy shores and saline crater lakes to fresh water.

Saline Lake in Queen Elizabeth NP

I didn’t have the chance to explore the whole extent of the park, however, my visit was marked by several remarkable wildlife encounters. The most emotional of which for me was seeing my first ever wild lion.

The announcement of the possibility of meeting the ‘king of the jungle’ happened, while I was photographing a couple of beautiful ‘national’ cranes – the grey-crowned crane – that appear on the Ugandan flag.

The Grey-crowned Crane – Queen Elizabeth NP

A couple of young lions walked away from the group of females and young ones, and took a little, slow-paced stroll, undisturbed by the safari cars full of surprised and excited people pointing their cameras straight at them.

It was somehow surreal to be sitting inside my car’s door, so I climbed outside the window to have a better view – part of the semicircle of cars which ended up surrounding the two exemplars of the most feared animals in the savanna, observing its moves from up close. 

For the first time I realised why the lion is called the ‘king of beasts’: it seems to fear nobody, is fully confident in its strengths and it has no intention of wasting its energies on uninteresting activities. It has its reasons for being fearless. According to Britannica, a fully grown male adult can reach 7 feet (2m) long and weighs up to 500 pounds (ca 230 kg). 

Now and then they moved, and one of them decided to take a nap laying against the wheel of one safari vehicle, to the joy of the only tourist that was onboard, who for ten minutes didn’t stop taking pictures. The lion was not at all interested, took its nap and then moved away to another spot.

That day of wildlife encounters ended with an unusual one, which I sadly missed. I thought my driver – always prone to joke – was kidding when he told me that I had just missed the regular evening walk of one of the local elephants. There is a pond behind one of the lodge buildings where I was staying and, every evening, that particular elephant finds its way almost as far as the rooms and villas, walking elegantly and steadily along the same paved lane used by the guests. I could see the wiggling of its hips under the short lamppost that brightened the path on the video that Abdul finally showed me, giggling in awe. Such a graceful and respectful guest, I thought.

Early morning walk – View from Buffalo Safari Lodge

A nice appetiser…

It feels like the two weeks, packed with activities, experiences and miles across the astounding scenery, was just a drop in the ocean compared to all that the country has to offer.

Before leaving, I had already marked the continuation of my visit with a list of places and encounters that I want to go back and experience. Although I am still wholeheartedly celebrating the experiences that I had – and this article does not have enough space to contain them all – I know that I need to come back to this country to watch the climbing lion of the Ishasha Plains, in another sector of Queen Elizabeth NP, meet the chimps at Kibale NP and the gorillas in the Impenetrable Forest of Bwindi NP.

I also intend to return to see the tea plantations in Fort Portal and the Rwenzori mountains from close up, and perhaps even to climb them. I would also like to take the boat and see the Murchison Falls from the other side. Last but not least, I am looking forward to paying a visit to the remote areas of the North Karamoja and its traditional communities.

Mountain views the Queen Elizabeth NP

Mountain views the Queen Elizabeth NP continued...

Papyrus on the Kazinga Channel

I feel I need to open another chapter to talk about the invisible communities of this fascinating country, after having visited the National Museum in Kampala and learnt about the history and traditions of the fifty-six (yes, fifty-six!) different ethnic groups that still populate it.  

My next trip will definitely focus more on the local communities, which I only started to learn about since I travelled there. I will be directing my next journey in an anthropological direction – closer to my natural predisposition and interests – meeting cultures at the grassroots level, which for different reasons I was, unfortunately, not able to do this time. Now that I have discovered the cultural richness of this gentle country, my next trip will be completely immersed in it.  

Many stories still need to be told and that is the place where I belong.

*** 

I entered the country with no expectations and an open mind and left it finally understanding why it is called ‘the Pearl of Africa’. Its astonishing beauty is naturally hidden inside a hard and rough shell of little information and a lack of communication, which doesn’t reflect what it nurtures inside. A pearl is smooth and glowing with its own light, but one needs to be close to it to appreciate its radiance and be captured for life by its simple beauty. 

Come closer to Uganda and you will fall in love.  

See you soon, Uganda!

As a part of the Travel Matters team of Travel Advisors, I invite you to reach out to me if you need advice to plan your own itinerary through the real hidden gems of Uganda. I would be happy to share my knowledge with you and help you tailor-make your next trip to the Pearl of Africa. You can contact Elisa at -travelmatterswithelisa@gmail.com

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. She travelled to Uganda in September 2022. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

Pocket sized Guyana in the North Eastern corner of South America is truly a wild frontier. A land of few roads, pristine forest and just 4,000 genuine tourists a year (which is less than Machu Picchu receives in one day) but wildlife and ecotourism a plenty. Guyana is a destination for travellers rather than tourists and for someone who likes to get of the beaten track, I was therefore thrilled to be given the opportunity to discover more of this still relatively little-known destination in October this year. Compared to most of South America, Guyana is under-developed, with over 80% of the land mass still virgin rainforest and it was to the thinly populated interior that I headed for the majority of my visit. Guyana has very few sealed or dirt roads which makes travel into the interior difficult and challenging with long distances  covered by small aircraft. Accommodation in the interior is mostly in intimate and simple lodges, ranches and rainforest resorts, with the following being a few of the places I can recommend to stay. 

Kaieteur Waterfalls

Waikin Ranch

Flying from the capital Georgetown over the rainforest to Letham, near the Brazilian border, takes you to the heart of the Rupununi with my first taste of the interior being in fact endless savannah. The vast savannahs of Rupununi have been home to Amerindian tribes and earlier indigenous populations for nearly 7,000 years. Nowadays ranch stays are popular and offer a chance to ride out with the vaqueros (cowboys) over the scenic savannah to watch the enormous sun setting over the horizon. My home for the night was Waikin Ranch, just thirty minutes’ drive from Letham and a perfect base camp to explore the Central Rupununi and surrounding attractions. Along with a night in one of the beautifully designed cabins, I enjoyed a trip out to the ‘Termite City’ and was stunned by the size and abundance of the mounds and no surprise, spent a lot of time cooling off in the ranches’ swimming pond, filled by a natural underground spring, admiring the huge variety of birdlife flying overhead.

Petra in Termite City

Karanambu Lodge

From Waikin Ranch I headed to Karanambu Lodge, a 110 square miles former cattle ranch located in the North Rupununi and the home of the late Diane McTurk (a pioneering spirit in establishing eco-tourism in the Rupununi) conservationist and a world-renowned expert on giant otters. Known for its expansive wetlands and savannah, as well as its biological and cultural diversity, Karanambu encompasses savannah, marsh ponds, riparian forest and a 30-mile stretch of the Rupununi River. The number of species found here is much higher than expected given its size with at least 600 species of bird and over 200 species of mammals. Guyana really is an undiscovered treat for those with an keen interest in wildlife. A very young David Attenborough spent time here and wrote about it in his early book, ‘Zoo Quest to Guiana’. The lodge has the flavour of an Amerindian village and dawn patrols on the savannah reveal giant anteaters and outstanding birding .

Karanambu Lodge

Caiman - Karanambu Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge sits is a small clearing surrounded by the towering rainforest, with black curassow wandering the lawns and humming birds feeding on the tropical flowers. Every room looks on to the forest and is a 10-minute stroll to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. The Iwokrama Canopy Walkway has four suspension bridges leading to three platforms, the highest of which is over 30-metres above the ground and offers exceptional views of the surrounding rainforest and is another ideal spot for birdwatching. ATTA's 8 en-suite rooms have been designed to make the most of the unique location with private roofless showers that offer a stunning view of the forest canopy tree tops while you shower.

Aerial view Atta Rainforest Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge

Black Curassaw

Canopy walkway - Atta Rainforest Lodge

Iwokrama River Lodge

Guyana is an indigenous word which means ‘Land of Many Waters’ with the Essequibo River being the largest.

The Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre is located on the banks of the river within The Iwokrama rainforest in the geographical heart of Guyana. The forest comprises one million acres (371,000 hectares) of forest or 1.6% of Guyana’s landmass and 2% of Guyana’s forests. It is part of the Iwokrama International Centre for Rain Forest Conservation and Development, an autonomous non-profit institution established by Guyana and the Commonwealth, founded to promote the conservation and the sustainable and equitable use of tropical rainforests. It aims to show how tropical forests can be conserved and sustainably used for ecological, social & economic benefits to local and national & international communities. When it comes to sustainability and eco-friendliness, Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre is the real deal. Accommodation is in eight perfectly situated river-facing cabins, each with its own veranda and hammock, perfect to watch the sun go down whilst listening to the many local birds and other wildlife. Iwokrama’s most popular excursion is to Turtle Mountain, an exhilarating 1 ¾ hour hike up a jungle trail to the top of the mountain (at approximately 360m) for breath-taking views over the top of the forest canopy. From here you really do get the scale of how vast the rainforest is. Not only is this pristine rainforest environment protected, but its local inhabitants, the Makushi people have hands-on involvement in all aspects of conservation and tourism.

River view at Iwokrama River Lodge

Essequibo River (Iwokrama River Lodge)

Surama Eco Lodge

Guyana's first indigenous community lodge is set on a savannah overlooking rainforest and mountains with the Burro Burro River a short hike away. Surama Eco-Lodge is the place to discover the forest through they eyes of the Makushi people and if you're lucky see a harpy eagle. Whilst wildlife and birding are undoubtedly Guyana’s biggest draw, it was the chance to learn a little more about the Makushi that I found just as fascinating and especially a visit to the village of Surama. The village is situated in a small savannah, deep in the rainforest and surrounded by forest clad hills. It was here that Charles Waterton passed through in 1812 in search of the secrets of the useful Wourali poison known as Curare. Waterton was so stunned by this spot that he wrote in his memoirs “The finest park that England boasts falls short of this delightful scene”. Surama's inhabitants are mainly from the Makushi tribe and still observe many of the traditional practices of their forebears. I was able to visit the local school, medical centre and church along with some of the village houses.

Surama Eco Lodge

Preparing Cassava - Surama Village

Guyana may be small in size but it is an absolute giant in terms of both responsible and sustainable tourism having won many eco-tourism awards including the inaugural; ‘Best of Eco-tourism’ category at the ITB global travel trade fair in Germany in 2019 and the Latin American Travel Association’s (LATA’s) ‘Best in Sustainable Tourism’ award. From its Low Carbon Development Strategy to the more recent Green State Development Strategy (GSDS), Guyana has had a long-standing commitment to a sustainability agenda. This coupled with nine Indigenous Nations who have been stewards of their ancestral lands for a millennia illustrates that sustainability is a core value and a way of life for many Guyanese. Indigenous communities own and manage their own tourism enterprises, from running eco-lodges to taking travellers out on immersive tours to discover the ancestral lands on which these enterprises are based. Their low-carbon lifestyle and conservation efforts of their ancestral lands mean that tourism not only has minimal impact on the environment but provides the essential livelihood required to sustain these communities.

Vaqueros (Cowboy) - Waikin Ranch

Giant Anteater - Waikin Ranch

The Swimming Pond at Waikin Ranch

With rivers and rainforest, gigantic lilies and enormous termite mounds, Guyana has no shortage of natural wonders but there's one that supersedes all others, and is the most visited attraction in the country - the Kaiteur Falls, almost five times the height of Niagara, with a single sheer drop of 226m. This is Guyana's trademark and easily one of the most impressive and beautiful sights in the country, a solid column of water in a perpendicular drop, the cascading foam and spray producing breathtaking rainbows across the gorge. Getting to the falls involved a flight by propeller plane, landing at a tiny airstrip near the waterfall, the pilot circulating the falls, so both sides of passengers can take in the full view (and take the obligatory show and tell photo for folks at home). One other sight or sighting that puts Guyana on the map (particularly amongst the birding community) is a glimpse of the illusive Cock of the Rock bird, a fabulously coloured bright red-orange bird with a very striking appearance and mating dance. There were two opportunities to spot the tiny bird and I was rewarded on the short appropriately named cock of the rock trail near Atta Rainforest Lodge. Cock of the rocks can also be seen on the short walks around the Kaieteur Falls.

Hoatzin Bird

To conclude Guyana is a place where travellers can experience extensive forests, mountains, waterfalls, rivers and wide array of wildlife along with a vibrant indigenous culture, a rich history and a hospitable and friendly people. If you are prepared to sacrifice luxury accommodation and a few creature comforts, the rewards will be phenomenal. Guyana's unique tourism product is well worth the extra cost and effort and I'd put South America's best kept secret high on your list as the next must-see destination.

Petra at Surama Eco Lodge

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matter’s Communication Officer. She visited Guyana in October 2023, with Wilderness Explorers. British Airways has flights to Georgetown, Guyana (via St Lucia) twice weekly. Visit Guyana Tourism and learn more. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd and Wilderness Explorers. If you need assistance planning your trip, make an enquiry today!)

On an overcrowded bus on a stifling September afternoon, I left the hot and restless town of Musanze to embark on a road journey that opened my eyes and heart to the hidden preciousness of an unknown and undervalued land. 

I had no idea what to look for in that foreign land beyond a two-day safari trip to Queen Elizabeth and several meetings I had planned across the country in eco-lodges, scattered on green patches on the map.The strong presence of the Sabyinyo volcano through the bus windows – which, later on, was supported by the presence of Gahinga and Muhabura – escorted me silently while the sun was going down, and provided great reassurance along the 25 km bumpy bus ride to an unknown land. I crossed the border between Rwanda and Uganda at Cyanika (Kyanika on Ugandan soil) on foot, dragging my luggage back and forth between two offices until my passport gained a brand-new stamp, next to my three-month visa. Finally, when the night had already arrived, I spotted the warm smile of a familiar face waiting for me on the other side of the barriers.

Over the following two weeks, I would cross the country on land from the south-western border with Rwanda to Lake Victoria’s bank, in the calm Entebbe, passing through the chaotic and overwhelming capital Kampala, tormented by endless traffic and livened up by its wild motor bikers.

Kampala – view from the top of the Minaret of the Central Mosque in the Old City.

On the way, I literally straddled the line of the equator, and visited, crossed or brushed sleeves with six of the ten National Parks (NP) that the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages – together with twelve Wildlife Reserves, five Community Wildlife Management Areas, and thirteen Wildlife Sanctuaries.

The road trip gave me the opportunity to really appreciate the landscape of a country the same size as the UK, but which felt much bigger and unexplored. I was impressed by the vast spaces around me, especially the rich and varied views, but also the amount of water I saw flowing through them. However, I haven’t yet been to the north-eastern region, which is the only semi-arid area of the country and therefore has different landscapes.

During my trip to most of the rest of the country, I have seen many bodies of water, in the shape of rivers, and lakes – volcanic, small and green, or vast like the sea – waterfalls, streams and a lot of rain. I was also pointed towards the supposed source of the longest river on the planet, although this matter is controversial, because there are three countries vying for who hosts the origin of the Nile. About 8 km from my first stop in Kisoro lies Lake Mutanda, which was created several thousand years ago following a volcanic eruption of the Virunga massif. Surrounded by green hills, the 22 km2 lake is blessed with a clear view of three of the eight Virunga volcanoes that sit in Ugandan territory. Muhabura, with an altitude of 4,127m, is the volcano that dominates Kisoro and the whole region so it is not surprising that it was given this name, which means ‘the guide’, since it used to guide people to the town before GPS became available. This was the first lake I’d seen here, and I had the chance to stay overnight on a tiny, cosy island that had remained uninhabited for at least 600 years. But that is a story for another time.

Murchison Falls – view from the top

View of Muhabura volcano from Kisoro town

There is a great view of the lake from the hills, on a small trail going to the organic coffee farm to learn about the local production and have a field-to-cup experience with a skilled guide and the local expert. I took some pictures of the water, but I must admit that I was distracted and entertained by the local children and their goats, that had surrounded me to come and say ‘hi’ and test their English with me.

Hills just outside Kisoro town, walking towards the Organic Coffee Farm with local kids and goats. In the background, Lake Mutanda.

Close to the water…I had a lot of encounters with water, usually joyful and electrifying; even the time when I ended up falling up to my hips in a deep muddy hole when disembarking from a boat, while it was raining cats and dogs. As soon as the fear of having my camera submerged in the mud vanished, I started laughing at the thought of having expected that spot to be rocky, and at being left with foggy glasses. Well, I was happy to have paid that price for having remained on board to take pictures of that – amazing – scene of the rain on the lake Mutanda.

Rain on Lake Mutanda

Boat ride on the Kazinga Channel – Queen Elizabeth NP

Kampala

Traditional canoes, parked at the local community’s pier on Lake Mutanda

However, the encounter I remember most vividly, without a doubt, was the one I almost had, close to the clouds, when I caught a brief glimpse of the Bwindi NP Forest from a privileged spot. Standing at the edge of an exposed hill facing directly towards the canopy, I saw the changes of scenery, the light forcing through the loaded clouds, and the atmosphere getting heavier, the wind blowing strongly and clouds gathering in preparation for a storm. All framed in that goalpost placed there by the locals for their football games.

I left the view of the national park behind, driving and skirting along its southern border in the rain and with a strong desire to enter the so-called ‘Impenetrable Forest’ next time. The image of the thick canopy I had seen from the top of the hill, close to the clouds, had generated vivid images in my mind of what could be below the ‘green roof’. Walking through a forest that challenges the light to get in, creating an evocative atmosphere to discover one of most biodiverse forests in Africa which, according to the Bradt guide, includes 160 tree and more than 100 fern species, not to mention 350 bird species, 200 butterfly species, many reptiles and amphibians, and at least 120 species of mammals.

I was reminded that here live 45% of the global population of mountain gorillas, of which there are a total of twenty-three families of habituated groups living in Bwindi NP, while and Mgahinga NP provides the home for only one habituated gorilla group: the Nyakagezi family.

The Twin Crater Lakes: Katinda & Murambi - near Queen Elizabeth NP

I would see even more water during my trip, after my first stop in Kisoro, including several visits to crater lakes, which was a present from my lovely guide, Abdul, of the experienced local Tour Operator Dav Safari. Another fabulous encounter with water was gifted to me by the lovely General Manager of Nile Safari Lodge, Nathalie Van Pée, who took me to the majestic and mighty Murchison Falls in the north-west of the country.

After a six-hour car ride on a trip spent with my face pressed against the window, awestruck, I arrived at Queen Elizabeth NP, welcomed by a baby elephant concealed in the dark, which my driver spotted before I even realised there was something moving between the bushes on the side of the road. A propitious sign, that marked the beginning of a series of unusual wildlife encounters the next day, which is detailed in ‘Uganda: a country to embrace with open arms (Part 2)’.

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. She travelled to Uganda in September 2022. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

Embarking on a trip to the Galápagos Islands is like getting a golden ticket to the fanciest wildlife party on the planet. Let's face it: this isn't the kind of place you casually drop by every weekend – it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience! With a captivating history spanning nearly five million years, these islands stand out as an exceptionally unique destination. Their untouched volcanic landscapes and teeming wildlife make them a must-see destination for any seasonal traveller. 

So, If you're contemplating a journey to the Galápagos Islands, given that most travellers will only have this chance once, you want to get it right! 

Picking the right travel company is crucial to make sure your journey is not only successful but also thoroughly enjoyable. A guided tour to ensure the safety and expertise of the area and the wildlife will be your best bet. 

I highly recommend going on a cruise as it allows you to reach more remote areas that cannot be reached by day tour. Cruises do most of their travel by night or use their downtime when having meals. Also, with a cruise, you will get the chance to see a greater quantity and variety of animals, both on the water and on land. Think of the best-kept secrets, like hidden gems but with fins and feathers!

I had an incredible opportunity to visit the Galápagos in the lap of luxury. I spent eight wonderful days sailing in style through these unique islands on Ecoventura's youngest luxury yacht, the Theory. 

 Ecoventura, with more years under its belt than a tortoise has wrinkles, is the real deal! Boasting over 20 years of experience and esteemed Relais & Chateaux association membership, it stands out as an excellent and reliable option. The company offers a range of options for exploring the Galápagos Islands. You can choose how long you want to stay, from seven to fourteen days. They offer two main routes: A southern/central one (route A), which focuses more on beaches and bays, and a western/northern one (route B), which focuses more on the volcanic wonders and the more remote islands. But both routes have incredible sights and offer a wide range of wildlife, so you can't go wrong! 

Every day, you go on guided tours accompanied by certified naturalists to explore the remote islands and learn more about the wildlife. You will do exciting things like snorkelling with sea lions, kayaking with turtles and chilling with giant tortoises. Whale watching, dolphin swimming and soaking up the sun with iguanas are just the tip of the iceberg. Not to mention different kinds of birds, including those exclusive to the archipelago, like the Galapagos Hawk or Waved Albatros. The schedule is active but not overwhelming. I feel like Ecoventura has managed to find a perfect balance between the activities and time to relax on the boat.

 The Ecoventura crew was exceptional, with no floss. They treated us like royalty and attended to all our needs throughout the journey, ensuring a seamless experience. They weren't just handing out snacks; they were dishing out a full-blown VIP experience. They provided three-course meals, snacks, and drinks but also an extended warm welcome from the captain. After each snorkelling adventure, the gesture of offering a comforting cup of chocolate with the buffet waiting for us on the sun deck added a special touch, making us feel genuinely cared for. The crew's exceptional service, from the diligent room-cleaning by a friendly "little elf" to their attentiveness whenever we required assistance, contributed to an overall top-notch experience. The social aspect of the journey, with group activities and shared meals, adds a community touch to the adventure. 

What sets Ecoventura apart is its commitment to environmental conservation and its low guide-to-guest ratio (1 guide for every 10 guests). With a maximum of 20 guests on each yacht (10 cabins), this ensures a high level of attentiveness and personalised service.

Ecoventura has been at the forefront of eco-conscious travel in the Galápagos, holding the prestigious Smart Voyager ecological certification since 2000 - way before being green was cool! Their commitment to sustainability is remarkable, with 40 solar panels and two wind generators, making their yacht the first hybrid vessel in the Galápagos. Ecoventura's dedication to reducing its environmental impact is truly admirable. They're on a mission to reduce carbon emissions, promote longer stays, and kick single-use plastics to the curb with refillable bottles. Ecoventura's dedication to reducing its environmental impact is truly admirable.

In a nutshell, if you want to experience the Galápagos in all its quirky glory, Ecoventura is your ticket. Its dedication to conservation, well-planned trips, and commitment to offering an extraordinary and eco-friendly travel adventure is a top choice! It's not just a trip; it's a sea-soaked, wildlife-packed, and environmentally-conscious escapade. So, pack your bags, channel your inner David Attenborough and prepare for the wildlife fiesta of a lifetime!

Travel Matters was delighted to book Helene and her family on an unforgettable holiday to Namibia and South Africa. Helene told us all about their experience:

“So, as the September sun is out I reflect on our family adventure to Namibia and South Africa. Talking to Catherine, at Travel Matters, when we were planning the trip she asked me, “What do you want to come back and say about your time away?” I’d like an adventure please! Did we have a family adventure? Oh yes, most certainly an African adventure!

Stepping off the plane in Namibia I knew this country was nothing like we had travelled to before; vast, dramatic with the most stunning scenery. As we moved from the capital in our 4 wheel drive car we were going to see very little tarmac road but the most amazing landscape where at times I wondered if we had landed on another planet! As we moved around the country the colours of vivid blue, burnt yellow and orange became our backdrop.

Remote doesn’t do justice to some of the places we stayed where the people welcomed us with wonderful hospitality and friendliness. Beautiful lodges to stay and explore this stunning country, with wildlife, geology and botanical lessons at every stop. It felt like a holiday like no other but some rich learning of a country steeped in tribal tradition, rare animals and a geology lesson thrown in as an added bonus!

Travel Matters, along with the help of Ali at Far and Wild, made for an unforgettable trip, listening to all our different needs to provide the holiday of a lifetime. Rich memories for us to remember when our teenagers have left home and for them the chance to experience a life so far from their normal life.

After our tour around the country we joined Oyster Travel to work on a local project in the Namibian desert. This included wild camping, elephant trekking and painting a local school. An amazing opportunity to learn more about this country and it’s people.

Then to finish our trip some time in Cape Town where the mountains and ocean collide.

I reflect on our time away and cherish those experiences which deepen your understanding of the world but most importantly of our fellow people and the kindness of strangers who became brief friends.”

Feel inspired? Want to travel to Africa? Travel Matters is always here to assist you with your travel plans. Get in contact today!

(Helene, a Travel Matters client, visited Namibia & South Africa with her family in July 2023)

Get to know our amazing team!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce our Travel Writer and Contributor, Elisa. She is a curious, respectful, and community-oriented traveler.

In our interview with Elisa, she shared her insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know more about Elisa!

What kind of traveller are you?

Curious, respectful and community-oriented. I love listening to the local stories from the local perspectives, I tend to seek out the less travelled paths. I usually ask a lot of questions while I am travelling, and I remain open as possible to what’s in front of me. I try to connect and listen to the place, waiting to see what it has to offer, and although I love planning and studying the maps, I remain flexible to change my travel plans and daily route if the flow of the moment takes me somewhere else. 

I love exploring the places that I visit by walking for hours or by using public transport. I know that I am not a local and don’t pretend to be one. Also, accepting my diversity opens new opportunities for unexpected encounters.  I know that in most of the countries that I visit, I am privileged simply because I can travel and because I hold a European passport by birth.

What is your favourite destination? why?

Brazil. I believe this is my favourite destination because it was my first travel love. 

Brazil was the first country on a different continent I visited completely alone. I went there for three months without knowing a single person, with the mission of carrying out my field research that would serve as the basis for my Italian master’s thesis in Sociology and Anthropology. I fell deeply in love with a very diverse and fascinating country, rich in contrast, colours and traditions. Over the years I went back several times to work and study. 

I had the chance to travel the country extensively and encounter many of the different cultures that make up the Brazilian nation.  Besides that, this is where I met tourism, several local indigenous and traditional communities and their amazing CBT projects, in rural as well as urban settings. After 20 years from the first time I set foot in its land, the country continues to enchant me and surprise me. Especially the strength and the creativity of its people, who are extraordinarily resourceful and resilient in an inspiring and encouraging way.

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination?

I would like people to know that Brazil has an immense variety of ethnicity and cultures, and goes far beyond those top four or five destinations that people usually identify with.

Brazil has many social, historical and cultural layers and it is extremely rich, not only in biodiversity. Sadly though, its many stories remain untold and unseen. Therefore I would invite travellers to explore the country more with the local communities, which increasingly offer authentic and engaging grassroots experiences that have positive impacts and become an important tool for self-empowerment and social and economic improvement of the well-being of the local population.

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips?

1. When you travel, always remember that you are a guest in someone else’s home. 

2. Respect what you don’t know and keep an open mind on any aspects of the social life you visit – you don’t have to accept them, but you shouldn’t judge them either. Your culture is not the centre of the universe but only one of the thousands of others on this planet.

3. Be aware of the major local environmental struggles (such as water scarcity and pollution, for example) and do your best not to overburden the situation.

Also keep your carbon footprint as low as possible by preferring environmentally friendly means of transportation, and, last but not least, by being aware of the waste you produce and controlling your behaviours.

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

Travel is an incredible opportunity for personal growth and societal transformation. There is so much to learn around us. Every choice we make as tourists has consequences on the destination: the impact always exists, however, whether it is positive or negative depends entirely on our conscious decisions.

Travel, when done responsibly can bring opportunities for mutual enrichment. I make Travel Matter by bringing that awareness to my travel experience and sharing my experience with other audiences.

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

I would like to see ethnic minorities and local communities becoming an active part of the decision-making process in the type of tourism offered in a destination.

I would love to see a truly diverse, inclusive and equitable industry, beyond the greenwashed declarations of good intentions.

I would love to see an industry that welcomes the variety of narratives our societies are made of and is ready to include all the unheard voices, providing equal opportunities for women, all identities and minorities.

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

I would travel to a remote destination, surrounded by the sea – perhaps Iceland, or the Faroes Islands – and I would spend a lot of time in silence, completely immersed in nature, absorbing the energy of the water, before sitting around a campfire with local community members.

I will bring my camera, a pen and a notepad to collect my emotional reactions to the environment, but also to gather those elements for future visitors and, most importantly, to record the local stories shared by my hosts and help prepare meaningful encounters.

Anything else you would like to add?

I’d like to add an invitation. Keep travelling, keep learning and exploring: the world is huge and diverse, and travel is the best way of experiencing that.

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

Get to know our amazing team!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce our Communications Officer, Petra. She is a solo traveler and when she is abroad, she uses local transport and likes to get under the skin of a destination learning about different cultures and religions. She has currently visited more than 120 countries.

In our interview with Petra, she shared her insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know more about Petra!

What kind of traveller are you?

I tend to travel solo, using local transport and really like to get under the skin of a destination learning about different cultures and religions.

What is your favourite destination? why?

Not so much a destination but a region.  I lived in Hong Kong for 3 years between 1987 - 90 and during that time travelled extensively in Asia, returning regularly to visit a new country in the region at least every other year.  I've travelled extensively through India, from Rajasthan to Ranthambore National Park, enjoying chaotic markets and the hustle and bustle of the cities, sunrise over the Taj Mahal, exploring the backwaters of Kerala, trekking in the foothills of the Himalayas, and chilling on the beach in Goa. 

More recently I visited Myanmar, easily one of the most beautiful and untouched countries in Asia and I hope that tourism will be able to return again soon.  This year I spent a month  in Sri Lanka, the pearl of the Indian Ocean with idyllic beaches, ancient ruins, sacred temples, verdant tea plantations, culture and wildlife

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination?

Asia is easily one of the most welcoming destinations in the world, the people possess a warm and friendly nature reflected in persistent smiling faces and an eagerness to help.  The food is also sensational! and the region is family-friendly and excellent value for money.

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips? *

1. Don't forget to bring a reusable shopping bag and water bottle

2. Hire a local guide

3. Choose a low carbon activity such as kayaking, cycling, horse riding, walking and swimming that allows you to get closer to nature.

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

I try and always use sustainable accommodations and tour operators.

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

People will continue to travel but rather than a significant number of small trips, people will travel for longer and more sustainably.  Wellness travel will become increasingly popular, and nature and the environment will be at the forefront of a travelling experience.

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

One region I haven't yet travelled to are the stans - Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.  I'm keen to see Samarkand one of the oldest inhabited cities in Central Asia and explore the best of the Silk Road, diving deep into the fascinating history, captivating landscapes and beautiful culture that is intertwined throughout this region. I'd bring with me one of my younger sisters who is as adventurous as I am!

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

Get to know our amazing team!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce one of our Travel Consultants, Monika. She is a nature lover, who loves to travel near and surrounded by nature and get a hint of adventure in her travels. Monika loves to dive and after working in Southeast Asia as a Divemaster, she has gained exceptional expertise in diving destinations.

In our interview with Monika, she shared her insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know Monika!

What kind of traveller are you?

Nature lover with a hint of adventure.

What is your favourite destination? why? 

Indonesia. Because of its beauty and diversity! Also, for being one of the top scuba diving destinations in the world. Being a nature lover, I love that Indonesia has many tropical forests, many pristine beaches with excellent dive sites, and amazing hikes to active volcanoes and wildlife. You can climb the active volcano in Java and play hide and seek with the largest lizard in the world - the Komodo dragon!

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination? 

Indonesia it's arguably the most geographically and culturally diverse country in the world! It is home to more than 17,000 islands, and its coral reefs, tropical forests, and mangrove ecosystems support one of Earth's most significant concentrations of biodiversity. With people from diverse origins and religions, Indonesia brings excellent food with various tastes.

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips?

1. Research before visiting a country and respect locals and their culture.  

2. Stay in eco-friendly or local accommodations. Seek and enjoy cultural experiences.  

3. Say no to plastic. Protect our environment and leave nothing but footprints.

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

By leaving things as we found them and researching the country we visit. By respecting local cultures and preserving nature. By shopping locally and by supporting family-run businesses.

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

Less impact on the environment and more people travel to rural places to learn and discover new cultures.

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

I would love to explore the world of sea and ice and go on an Antarctic expedition. Dive under the ice and meet the majestic blue whales. I would bring my partner in crime, my husband.

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

Get to know our amazing team!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce one of our Travel Consultants, Catherine. When travelling, Catherine prefers to go on travels based around barefoot luxury with a good dose of adventure. Her many years in the travel industry, have given her a huge knowledge base and she would love to share her knowledge with you!

In our interview with Catherine, she shared her insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know more about Catherine!

What kind of traveller are you?

Barefoot luxury with a good dose of adventure is my vibe!

What is your favourite destination? 

Slovenia!

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination? 

It's sophisticated eco-adventure at its best - imagine treehouses in a chocolate village, snow-capped mountains, crystal blue waters, cobbled streets by the river with alfresco dining in the capital city of Ljubljana. Farm-to-table dining experiences, Michelin-starred chefs, cycling, climbing, hiking, white water rafting, snow sports, spa experiences, and beaches - Slovenia has it all!

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips? 

1. If you're in a hotel and they provide you with plastic water bottles in your room, ask them to provide a re-fillable glass bottle with filtered or spring water instead (if enough people ask, they will start to change!).

2. If possible, consider travelling by train instead of plane and enjoy a more enriching experience as a result. 

3. Learn hello, please and thank you in the language of the place you are visiting - remember you are a guest in someone else's country, a little courtesy goes a long way!

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

As above.  Also, I like to engage with people that live and work in the place that I am visiting - stay curious and interested in people, find out their story and enjoy an enriching cultural exchange as a result. You may learn something or gain an insight that you can share with others at home, or that triggers you to create a positive impact - and so begins the ripple effect of goodness!

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

I'd love to see every traveller taking on my tips as above! And, travel less for longer and enjoy experiences where your money is making a difference to the communities in the places you are visiting.

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

Kala Patthar in the Himalayas with my Uncle Andy! And in a few years (when my daughter is old enough to appreciate it) I'm looking forward to taking her and my partner on Safari.

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

Get to know our amazing team!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce our Business Development Manager, Matt.

When Matt is traveling he wants to be on his feet (or in the water) and he loves to explore new and exciting destinations.

In our interview with Matt, he shared his insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know more about Matt!

What kind of traveller are you?

I want to be on my feet (or in the water) and explore a new and exciting destination.

What is your favourite destination? why?

Galicia, Spain - unspoilt countryside, epic Caribbean-esque beaches, enchanting forests and the Galicians are vibrant people.

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination?

Portugal = Port-u-gal = Port of Galicia. This part of the Iberian coast has historical significance in the development of Spain and Portugal, its Celtic past can be seen throughout its glorious countryside, it's one of the most underrated surf spots in Europe and it’s renowned for its formidable seafood.

You can learn more about Galicia and our experiences here!

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips? *

1. Always take hard currency (money that you can use immediately) -  you might be surprised by the lack of card machines at your destination. 

2. Try to make at least one restaurant reservation - a bit of pre-departure research will indicate some of the best restaurants at your destination...the last thing you want is to arrive in a huge queue!

3. Check out the Travel Matters Campaign to Make Travel Matter 'Travel Tips'.

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

I think the most important aspect of holidaying in a destination is to integrate! Explore the local area and invest in local businesses...you will discover a host of new experiences.

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

More government-subsidised green transport options - for instance, 'Renfe' (a Spanish national passenger railway company) have offered free & heavily subsidised options on 'select multi-journey tickets' during 2022 & 2023...the perfect way to explore Spain in a responsible manner (for the environment and your wallet).

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

The Azores - my travel sidekick

Anything else you would like to add?

The Travel Industry is dependent on you, the traveller. As a Travel Company, we take pride in promoting trusted businesses that will ensure an unforgettable stay. We need you to support millions of lives.

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

We have become B Corp certified!

In celebration of gaining our B Corp certification, we would like to give you a peek behind the scenes and introduce our amazing team! This is our introduction series of our team members.

This week we would love to introduce our Founder and CEO Karen Simmonds! She is an adventurer, who loves to discover new places and when founding Travel Matters she knew she wanted to produce bespoke travels, that help communities and clients experience the true wealth of responsible tourism.

In our interview with Karen, she shared her insights and wisdom about everything travel related. Read further to get to know more about Karen!

What kind of traveller are you?

I am an adventurer.

What is your favourite destination? why?

Tricky as I love discovering new places...hmm Scotland, New Zealand, Switzerland, Costa Rica. I enjoy getting out in nature and exploring the great outdoors.

What do you wish people knew about your favourite destination?

There are many inside tips I can share as having travelled to so many destinations over the world (over 80+ countries) I feel my knowledge is really valuable to anyone visiting for the first time.

What are your top 3 responsible travel tips?

1. Travel light.

2. Respect people & be kind. 

3. You are a visitor in a host community, learn some basics in the language of the country you visit.

How do you Make Travel Matter while overseas?

I like to treat people with respect. I like to ensure as much of my money is helping with their economy, dining out, supporting local businesses, and learning about the culture. I am careful to use as little energy whilst I stay in the properties, mindful of water consumption, electricity, and food waste. 

What do you want to see in the future in the travel industry?

I want all travel businesses to play their part in ensuring that we protect the planet and respect the people on it. I want an industry where we help one another to understand the importance of travelling responsibly for a sustainable future. That is why I set up the Make Travel Matter campaign and we are a B Corp business.

If you could travel anywhere in the world, where would you go and who would you bring with you?

For my next trip, I'd love to visit Ecuador, Galapagos or Argentina with either my husband or a great friend.

Psst. Look out for our next posts as we introduce other members of the team!

Travel Matters & Catherine explore Oman

If bling is not your thing and you’d like to try something different to the Caribbean or the Indian Ocean, then Oman may be just the ticket. With its low-rise buildings, architecture that blends into the natural surroundings and peaceful way of life, Oman offers an experience like no other.

On arriving at Muscat International Airport we were greeted by the warm smile of Azad - our driver and guide for the next few days. Knowing that you are in the safe hands of a reliable driver who is there to greet you at the airport is always a good start to a holiday if you ask me! I travelled with my partner and our 4 year old daughter (car seats are a legal requirement up to and including the age of 3 so make sure you take one with you or ask us and we can request this for you). 

Azad with Jasmine (she’s still talking about him!)

Despite the endless amount of experiences available to those with a sense of adventure, we opted to spend the first week taking some much needed time for R&R at the Shangri-La Al Barr Jissah. As we walked into the entrance we were met with the unmistakable fragrance synonymous with Oman – Frankincense.

During our stay in Muscat we visited the Sultan Qaboos Mosque – with its nine ton Swarovski crystal chandelier, it's a truly breath-taking piece of architecture and a must see for anyone visiting Muscat. Make sure to visit before 11am Saturday-Thursday, after 11am and Fridays are reserved for Muslim worshippers.

Sultan Qaboos Mosque

For culture vultures, there’s the state-of-the-art Royal Opera house featuring world-renowned artists throughout the year with prices that are surprisingly reasonable.  

After a week with the family in Muscat, I bid them farewell as I stayed on for a further week to explore more of what Oman has to offer. Here’s a taste of what you can expect to experience. 

A Night in the Desert

A few hours outside of Oman’s capital city, Muscat, you can drive off in to the desert, literally. If you’re comfortable driving through sand it’s possible to self-drive, personally I very much enjoyed the ride in the hands of a seasoned pro at the wheel. At first it doesn’t look like much, just dusty plains and a few ramshackle outposts, but soon enough you’re driving through vast swathes of undulating sand dunes. Then the real fun begins (if you’re up for it) with the roller coaster ride of ‘dune bashing’. For those of you that don’t know – dune bashing is driving at speed over the dunes – my piece of advice ‘KEEP YOUR WINDOWS CLOSED’! It may seem obvious but in the excitement of it all and wanting to capture it on camera, I’d opened the window – next thing I know I have a face full of sand and I’m still finding bits in my hair days later! It was great fun though and well worth it! 

On arriving at the Thousand Nights Camp, we were greeted with fresh juice and of course dates and Omani coffee (an acquired taste). Set deep into the dunes, I was surprised to see a swimming pool and full-blown restaurant, let alone power sockets and air conditioning – there's even WI-FI (granted it’s only accessible in the main reception area, perfect if you want an excuse to disconnect). Accommodation is in Bedouin style woven tents, all equipped with proper beds, AC, power sockets and private shower bathrooms. 

The highlights for me went from high-octane fun bouncing around the dunes in a jeep and the more peaceful experience of trekking up the sand dunes in the moonlight and lying under the stars. 

A Night in the Mountains

As soon as you walk through the doors of Anantara Jabal Akhtar you are transported to an oasis of calm with the most magnificent views of the Jabal Akhtar canyon. Anantara properties are famed for the tranquil surrounds and spa facilities, so you can rest assured that a stay here will leave you feeling restored... and in my case rejuvenated. For those of you with a sense of adventure and nerve, then the Via Ferrata experience is not to be missed. On meeting Hassan, my mind was at rest knowing that I was in the capable hands of an expert. We got kitted up and ventured out to the edge of the canyon where I began my adventure – traversing rocks over hundreds of feet, zip lining across gorges and ending the experience by crossing the middle-east's highest steel bridge just as the sun was setting – magical! It was an experience I’ll treasure forever, helped along by photos and videos captured by my expert guide along the way – thank you Hassan!

A Night on the Musandam Coast

To the northern tip of Oman is the beautiful Musandam Coast that bridges the Oman Sea and the Arabian Gulf. A stay at the Atana Khasab perched on a clifftop looking out to sea. A sunset cruise in a traditional dhow boat with a 400 step hike to the cross roads of the Oman Sea and the Arabian Gulf, the experience was nicely topped off by a swim in the azure waters of the Oman Sea.

We stayed at Atana Khasab, a simple boutique property perched on a low cliff overlooking the ocean, which was the ideal way to end a special trip!

To learn more about Oman, its holiday experiences or to talk to Catherine, please feel free to make an enquiry today.

(Catherine, a Travel Matters Travel Consultant, travelled to Oman in April 2023)

Travel Matters is always searching for new ways to reduce its carbon footprint and seek day-to-day sustainable alternatives, mainly through our Travel Matters Campaign to Make Travel Matter. Years ago we were inspired by Dale Vince and his business ‘Ecotricity Ltd’. Today, Ecotricity specialise in selling Green Energy to consumers that it primarily generates from its 87.2 megawatt wind power portfolio. In recent years we have been encouraged by their production of Green Energy from the Sun, particularly their Sun Parks in Leicestershire and Devon that use the latest bifacial solar panel technology.

Photo Credit, Markus Spiske

Upon further investigation we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Morocco is becoming a key global player due to its world-leading solar arrays. Did you know that Morocco has the world's largest concentrated solar power plant? The ‘Ouarzazate Solar Power Station’ is a huge 3,000 hectare solar farm that has been cleverly positioned at the gateway to the Sahara Desert, which enables it to produce 580 megawatts – thus, saving the planet from over 760,000 tonnes of carbon emissions! The irony, however, is that the countries who are most vulnerable to climate change and whose carbon emissions are tiny compared to industrialised nations, are leading the way as sustainability heroes! Morocco faces tough environmental challenges, like; scorching heat, soaring temperatures, droughts, coastal flooding and increasing food and water scarcity. However, all of this has not stopped Morocco, who now proudly produces renewables that make up almost two-fifths of its electricity capacity. Due to their impressive achievements to decarbonise, Morocco has seen overseas investment from the likes of ‘Xlinks Morocco-UK Power Project’, which endeavour to deliver 8% of Britain’s electricity supplies. This will be achieved with a 3,800km cable that links Morocco with the United Kingdom and will be able to supply power for around 7 million homes by 2030.

Photo Credit, Antonio Garcia

Morocco’s commitment to sourcing alternates forms of energy was further rewarded in 2016, when the country became a host nation for ‘Formula E’. Since then, Marrakesh ePrix’s circuit, the ‘International Automobile Moulay El Hassan’, has been featured four more times in a ‘Formula E’ season.

Photo Credit, Fabrizio Russo

What does a ‘Formula E’ and electric cars have to do with Travel Matters Campaign to Make Travel Matter? Well, Travel Matters doesn’t have a particular interest in ‘Formula E’, but we are pleased to see more environmentally conscious variations on ‘Formula 1’. We have been championing the use of EV’s (Electric Vehicles) for a long time now – ‘Why Electric Vehicles (EVs) are here to stay’ and our collaboration with ‘Rolzo Ltd.’. In April 2023, Karen (our CEO & Founder) was contacted by Khalid Dahbi; a Chef, Philanthropist and Entrepreneur. Mr. Dahbi invited Karen & Travel Matters to be part of his ‘Kingdom to Kingdom Rally 2023’ – the first green rally of its kind, with the purpose of highlighting the necessity for EVs and for the use of green energy vehicles. The rally starts in London, with its finish line being in Morocco’s Red City, Marrakech (29th May to 3rd June 2023).

What Travel Matters wants to achieve is to highlight how electric vehicles can shape a greener future, as well as support Mr. Dahbi’s chosen charities, which he will be raising funds for during the rally. These include:

• ‘Association Dar Al Atfal Al Ouafae’ - for the mentally struggling, homeless children and youth as well as women in difficult circumstances

• ‘Ben Guerir Fondation Orient-Occident’ -its mission is to come towards the difficulties of young people from disadvantaged neighbourhoods and to promote employability by setting up socio-educational and professional training structures throughout Morocco.

• ‘Marrakech- Alms of Africa’- charitable food distribution for poverty-stricken people in Marrakech.

• ‘Rabat Association Malaika’ - for children with Down syndrome in Rabat.

Photo Credit, Association Dar Al Atfal Al Ouafae

Photo Credit, Marrakech-Alms of Africa

Photo Credit, Ben Guerir Fondation Orient-Occident

As well as Karen, ‘The Kingdom to Kingdom Rally 2023’ has some of the following prominent figures supporting Mr. Dahbi; French Montana (Rapper & Musician), Graeme Souness (Former Professional Footballer & Manager), Kelly Brook (Media Personality), Lizzie Cundy (Philanthropist), Paul G. Andrews (Producer & Writer), Rhonda Parouty (President of ‘Empowering a Billion Women’), Roo Irvine (BBC Presenter) and many more…

We kindly ask that you take some time to learn a little more about ‘The Kingdom to Kingdom Rally 2023’ & Mr. Dahbi and consider making a charitable donation to his Just Giving fundraising page.

Photo Credit, Khalid Dahbi

Sri Lanka, the 'tear-drop' isle in the Indian Ocean is back on the map. The country has stabilised after its recent upheaval and there are no longer issues with food and fuel supplies.  After a few challenging years, Sri Lanka is very much open again for tourism but without the crowds and offers excellent value for money. I spent 3 weeks exploring the island this February combining Indian Ocean beach chilling with culture and wildlife.   These are a few of my favourite places to stay.

JETWING LAKE DAMBULLA

Jetwing Hotels has a collection of 31 distinctive hotels and villas spread across Sri Lanka with Jetwing Lake Dambulla being an excellent base to explore the Cultural Triangle. This region in the north-central plains of Sri Lanka was known as Rajarata (Land of Kings) but is now called the Cultural Triangle.  It encompasses the relics of the Sinhalese Kingdom of Anuradhapura, the later capital of Polonnaruwa and the revered cave temples of Dambulla.  Today the caves form the largest and best-preserved temple complex of their kind in Sri Lanka.  Surrounded by history and nature, Jetwing Lake blends contemporary, stylish design with a tremendous commitment to sustainability and the environment. Jetwing Hotels' Sustainability Strategy is adopted and actively practiced at all Jetwing properties. The strategy focuses on six key areas; energy and carbon, water & waste, biodiversity, community & culture, family and sourcing & production. There's a very useful Green Directory in every room explaining the six key areas and the way in which Jetwing Hotels embraces them including solar panels and biomass boilers, water conservation and wastewater management and the promotion of local culture #maketravelmatter. I possibly put too much focus on a hotel's swimming pool! but Jetwing Lake Dambulla's infinity pool was a definite winner, 93 m long, giving my regular pool Tooting Bec Lido a run for its money and more than enough space to do my lengths, and cool of at the end of a busy day of culture vulturing. Jetwing Lake is also ideally situated for one of Sri Lanka's must do and most iconic sights - Sigiriya Rock. Rising dramatically from the central plains, you'll need to climb a series of vertiginous staircases to reach the top of Sigiriya (Lion Rock) but well worth it, passing some remarkable frescoes and a pair of giant lion's paws carved into the bedrock along the way.

JETWING YALA

Sri Lanka is an ideal destination for a family holiday, with so much to amaze the whole family for such a small island. Top of everyone's wish list will be the chance to go on safari. Yala is Sri Lanka's most famous national park with the highest concentration of leopards in the world and serves as a tropical habit for elephants, sloth bears and deer, all of which can be observed through a pre-arranged safari. Jetwing Yala, right on the beach and at the doorstep of Yala National Park is a chic and modern choice in a beautiful location or for a more authentic safari experience, choose Jetwing Safari Camp. Located smack next door and using the same facilities. I stayed in the main hotel, families will love the groaning buffet with pasta and pizza for those not so keen on Sri Lankas's spicy food, although Sri Lankans cook up a storm both on the streets and in fine dining restaurants and the food was one of my absolute favourite things during my visit. A little aside, I befriended Fiona Shaw who families will know as Petunia Dursley in the Harry Potter film series, in the hotel swimming pool, so who knows you might spot along with the incredible wildlife!

JETWING UVA BEN HEAD VILLA

Sri Lanka's beautiful rolling hill country contains almost endless stretches of tea plantations (Sri Lanka is the world's third largest supplier) and a stay in a plantation hotel is an absolute must, to appreciate the ambience and enjoy tranquil walks. I stayed at a new Jetwing property, Jetwing Uva Ben Head Villa on the Uva Ben Head Estate near Welimada, with just two suites and a twin-bedded room. Sri Lankans are known for their hospitality, welcome and smiles. On discussing my trip, the three things that come up the most from others who have visited the island are the food, the scenery and the people. This cynical traveller was blown away by the genuine warmth of the welcome and none more so than at Uva Ben Head Villa. As a new property the staff went out of their way to look after me.  The villa is very private and if you're travelling with friends, I'd recommend taking over the whole villa.

CAMELLIA HILLS - DICKOYA

I loved the cooler climate of the highland tea region and Camellia Hills was a gorgeous boutique property, perched amongst tea bushes, high up on a hill near Hatton. Over-looking mirror still Castlereagh Reservoir which spans three miles of the surrounding valley, the hotel has five upscale rooms, two living rooms, a dining room and open terraces that overlook landscaped gardens and a 10m infinity pool. Most visits to Sri Lanka will involve quite a bit of touring the cultural triangle, Kandy and the hill country and Camellia Hills is an idea spot to recharge afterwards, drinking in the mountain vistas of the picturesque hill country, indulging in some fine dining and meeting your fellow guests. Sri Lanka has many remote villas and boutique style hotels that operate more like a house party as you swap travel experiences, naturally over a cup of tea or drink on the terrace in the evening. At Camellia Hills there was also a chance to partake in a cooking class, a tea factory tour, a tea trails walk, a boat ride on the lake, bird watching from the veranda and what did I do instead, climb 5,500 exhausting steps to the top of Adam's Peak! Adam's Peak (Sri Pada) is about an hour's drive from the property. At over 2000 metres high, the mountain has been a focus of pilgrimage for over 1000 years and is well known for the Sri Pada sacred footprint, a 1.8-metre-long rock formation near the summit.

THE FORT PRINTERS - GALLE

Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the best-preserved colonial sea fortress in Asia. The Dutch Fort has fourteen massive bastions, a grid system of streets and is still bustling with life as it did when Galle was the main passenger port. It's everyone's favourite spot to visit with a line-up of little shops selling arts and crafts and cosy cafes, a perfect time-warp for the inquisitive traveller, reminding me a little of two other walled / fortress cities I visited last year, Dubrovnik and Cartagena. I highly recommend you stay within the fort itself, I stayed at Fort Printers smack in the middle and was able to wander at will straight from the hotel and enjoy the sunset from the fortress walls. I was also able to then nip back quickly in the heat of the day to cool off in the hotels charming courtyard pool. A stay at Fort Printers is a step back in history, dating back to the 18th century, the printers building has over the years served as college, later the home of a printing company and has now been restored into an elegant boutique hotel. My room was called "The Headmasters" located on the first floor, overlooking the famed Galle lighthouse with old hard wood floors and exposed antique wood beams. The in-house restaurant is one of the best in Galle.

Photo Credit, Shainee Fernando

CINNAMON LAKESIDE - COLOMBO

Most visits to Sri Lanka will begin and end in the capital Colombo, don't be tempted to simply pass through as the city has plenty going for it, especially if you're there like me for Navam Perahera, one of Sri Lanka's biggest and most flamboyant peraheras (processions). Held on the first full moon in February, the parade starts from Colombo's Gangaramya Temple. The Cinnamon Lakeside Hotel, a 5-star resort hotel within the city was my Colombo base. A final word on swimming pools, The Cinnamon Lakeside Hotel has the largest pool in the city, so one happy swimmer. The hotel is also home to Colombo’s iconic and stylish watering hole, ColomBar with fabulous views over Beira Lake and the new brightly lit up Colombo Lotus tower. As one of the trendiest bars in town, ColomBar offers over 116 types of arracks (arrack is a distilled alcoholic drink typical to Sri Lanka made from the fermented sap of coconut flowers or sugarcane). It was here that I savoured “Lantharum”, ColomBar’s signature drink made of local arrack in a smooth blend of cinnamon and tea, served in a lantharuma (lantern) shaped unique glass for a truly unique experience and memorable start to my trip. 

If local folklore is to be believed, Sri Lanka was the prototypical holiday destination.  It is alleged that Adam & Even took refuge here after leaving the Garden of Eden, exchanging one paradise for another. The island combines, nature, culture, adventure and wildlife with sun, sea, sand and sensational scenery, what's not to like! Also, unlike many other Asian destinations, Sri Lanka's climate really does make it an all-year-round beach holiday destination.  It's also a place that Karen and Zoe know well, so if you are still craving a winter sun break or a good value family destination for the Easter or Summer holidays don't hesitate to give us a call or to send us an e mail.

To find out more about Sri Lanka, visit the following Link. Petra travelled to Sri Lanka with Sri Lankan Airlines.

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matter’s Communication Officer. She visited Sri Lanka in February 2023. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd.)

Many of you who know me personally will understand that I am obsessed with the healing qualities of water, especially the cold water. Having swum at Tooting Bec lido for the last 14 years throughout the winter months as well as the summer, I am convinced of the healing benefits of cold water. I created retreats by a Scottish Loch so I could share my passion of the water with others. This pastime has opened new doors for me, I have become a swim ambassador and volunteer for Mental Health Swims, I qualified as an open water lifeguard and more importantly I have made some new friendships from the global cold water swimming community.

Karen at the Guinness World Record attempt for under ice swimming in Norway

Amber Fillary is one of those new connections for me. Amber is an individual who too, understands the benefits of the cold water for wellbeing. As a recovered addict and someone who suffered with mental health issues, she is now a motivational speaker who too, wants to share her love for the healing qualities the cold water brings. In autumn 2023, we are partnering together to organise another retreat in Scotland. Amber is also a free diver (don’t try this at home!) and was attempting to break her own Guinness World Record on swimming under ice in a single breathe for over 100 metres. The attempt was in Norway this March.

The river at Kongsberg, Norway

I travelled to Norway to watch her. I flew with Norse Air, a new airline that offers affordable fares on long-haul flights, primarily between Europe and the United States. It has a service to New York from London via Oslo. From Oslo, I headed to Kongsberg by train. There is a train station directly at the airport for ease and an hourly train service to Kongsberg. The town of Kongsberg was very close to being the capital of Norway in the 17th century due to their wealth from the silver they mined. These days, it’s a small town of just over 26,000, lying on the mighty river Numedalslågen.

Amber Fillary by the ice hole, Norway

Amber’s attempted free dive took place just outside of Kongsberg in a lake. With ice holes dug out set 10 metres apart, the ice was over 50 cms in depth. There were scuba divers under the water and judges above as well as below the frozen lake. Sadly, due to a bad infected cut on her knee, which had got worse by the hour with swelling on her shin too, her body was unable to achieve her record attempt. Being under the water for over 3 minutes on a single breath whilst dealing with an infection meant that despite having trained and achieved the distance in the days before, her attempt did not  qualify for the officials. It was disappointing for her. The Guinness World Records are not easy and this extreme sport is dangerous. She is determind to secure her own record and will return to the lake in twelve months to attempt the record again.

After my time in Kongsberg, I returned to Oslo. I had several hours looking around the city by foot. Must see attractions are the harbour, the Akershus Fortress which is a medieval castle built to protect and provide a royal residence for the city, and the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace in Oslo was built in the first half of the 19th century as the Norwegian residence of the French-born King Charles III John, who reigned as king of Norway and Sweden.

Opera House Oslo, Norway

Oslo has several ski fields around the city. Climbing hills in Norway is a natural thing to do. This seems to apply to a very special building too. The city’s iconic Opera House. You must climb the Opera House roof. Climb for amazing views of the fjord archipelago with small, traditional wooden summer houses. You get a great view of the saunas alongside the waterfront with cold water bathers enjoying a sauna experience with a cold dip in the icy waters of the fjord.

Saunas by the waterfront in Oslo Norway

I caught the 81 bus from Oslo centre to head to my final destination, a hotel that specialises in wellness. The Well is a all singing, all dancing Spa hotel. You can join in the spa rituals for a unique and exciting wellness experience. I participated in the magical sauna rituals, hot and cold baths, and felt the community with others. This can give you a real mood boost and strengthen your body and mind!

 With saunas, hammans, jacuzzis, pools – inside and outside, I could not think of a better place to unwind, to relax and become quite zen- like after the emotional rollercoaster of a weekend. I spent an hour or two dipping in and out of water and heating up my core again in a sauna before chilling off in the cold water. The Well attracts many locals who come to enjoy the spa, however the hotel has hotel rooms for guests wanting to stay overnight. The brasserie serves delicious meals where you can dine in your bath robe – no need to get dressed.  Their Signature rooms have large windows that let in both generous amounts of light, the clean air and the sounds of the forest.

Oslo fjord, Norway

Before you head to Oslo, I recommend downloading the app Ruter on your phone for easy access on the public buses and trams. Norway is a magical country to visit. I didn’t raise my expectations for a sighting of the Northern Lights – best to consider a Northern Lights sighting as an added bonus and not go in search of them. The countryside is naturally so beautiful this time of year– snow laden trees in frozen landscapes. When the sun shone, it is extremely white all around from the snow’s brightness. Don’t forget to pack sunglasses as well as thermals, a hat and gloves.

Karen travelled to Oslo and Kongsberg in Norway to support Amber Fillary – twice Guinness World Record holder for Apnea Swimming.

Exploring Wildlife and Empowering Communities through Tourism: Other National Parks, Amazing Places to Visit and Fabulous Conservation Projects

Important conservation efforts have been achieved everywhere in Rwanda, and Volcanoes National Park (NP) – which is probably the most internationally well known, thanks to its beloved and precious gorillas – is only the tip of the iceberg of what the country is accomplishing in protecting biodiversity and wildlife.

Let me take you around the country to visit all the other national parks, so you can see for yourself that there are plenty of reasons to visit and to support this mission.

Akagera National Park

Founded in 1934 strictly for research purposes, and open to tourism only at the beginning of the 1970s, Akagera NP is currently the largest protected wetland in central Africa and the only savanna region in the country. On the edge of being lost forever after the genocide of 1994, the park today is thriving under African Parks that from 2010, in partnership with the Rwanda Development Board (RDB), is responsible for the management of the area.

After having successfully eliminated poaching in only five years, 45 lions were introduced from South Africa in 2015. This was followed by the introduction of black rhinos in 2017, while in 2021, 30 white rhinos joined them. Official statistics show that now, wildlife numbers have grown from less than 5,000 in 2010 to almost 12,000.

With these impressive numbers, I feel proud that Akagera was the place that hosted my first African safari. And although I didn’t have the chance to see any lions or rhinos, to my great excitement in the early hours of my first day, on the bank of lake Ihema in the southern part of the park at an altitude of 1,292 metres, I spotted my very first wild elephant.

During the game drive we encountered much wildlife: waterbuck standing as though they were posing for our clicks; many groups of quiet, light-brown impalas; zebras crossing the path of our jeep, almost unaware of our presence and; an entire family of warthogs with their littles ones moving quickly behind to catch up their parents. Moving slightly, on the surface of the water, we saw many pairs of ears belonging to some of the 885 hippos recorded as living in the park by the last census. Because of those numbers, Akagera continues to confirm its reputation as their ‘haven’.

Before leaving the park from the northern gate, after a few hours’ drive, we spotted in the distance a large black spot on the horizon, unrecognisable at first. As we got closer, the other options were dissipating and we soon realised that we were looking at a herd of buffalos, resting on the fresh grass, accompanied by their white companion birds on their back and with many giraffes in the background! Quite an impressive view.

Community Benefits

As we were informed the day before the game drive – by Jean Paul Karinganire, Assistant Tourism & Marketing Manager at the NP – the current goals of the park are to educate 2,000 kids every year and to promote the engagement of the local communities, that reside around its boundaries, in the development of local projects financed directly by tourism –nowadays this amounts to 300,000 individuals. I was indeed pleased to hear that the projects are democratically chosen directly by the communities, according to their needs and priorities, following a long, horizontal decision-making process that happens at the grassroots level every year.

Another important goal of the park, I was told by Jean Paul, is to create new economies and income-generating enterprises, such as beekeeping and fishery.

Thanks to projects like the Gishanda Fish Farm, the country is progressing in the innovation of its aquaculture development, while the surrounding communities are benefitting through new employment opportunities and access to new skills and knowledge. Last but not least, thanks to the increased access to a high-quality source of protein provided at a discounted price, the project will also help to combat local nutritional deficits. 

In Akagera, you can also visit a traditional cultural village, a Community-Based Tourism project managed by Twema Tourism Business Group. Located in Nyankora, this is the last small village you cross before arriving at the southern entrance to the park.

Thanks to projects like Twema’s, tourism becomes a tool for sustainable development by providing alternative employment opportunities to the people of the region, that not only won’t impact the biodiversity, but will also contribute to the cultural conservation and education of responsible tourists.

Cultural performance at Red Rocks, Musanze.

Nyungwe National Park

In the south-western corner of the country, in Africa’s largest protected mountain rainforest lies Nyungwe NP, an area rich in biodiversity and endemic species and the home of 1,068 plant species, 322 bird species, 75 different species of mammals and 13 different types of primate.

It contains different ecosystems, from rainforest to bamboo, grassland, swamps and bog habitats. After the impressive results accomplished in Akagera, in 2020 African Park was invited by the government to start a 20-year mandate to also manage this park. The first actions taken are encouraging and, in fact, in 2021 1,277 hectares of indigenous forest regeneration were assisted through the removal of exotic plants.

I spent hours in this forest, which I deeply loved. I sensed an intense and old energy passing through to me from the huge, ancient plants. I stood in silence next to monumental trees, after looking at flowers and lianas hanging over my head, or enjoying the shapes and bright, moist colours of the mushrooms sprouting from the fallen branches on the path.

I visited the forest three times in three days: the first day was to attempt the 200 m long canopy walk at 70 m above the forest floor; the second day, with the help of our expert ranger and the support of my porter, I went back to follow a couple of not too timid chimpanzees among the trees; and finally, the third time I went back I felt surprised and breathless in front to the Ndambarare Waterfall.

Looking at Nyungwe NP map at the Gisakura Visitor Centre

Ndambarare Waterfall

On one on those days, while sipping a restoring cup of local coffee at Gisakura Visitor Centre after the forest hike, I had the chance to witness the early steps of a young black and white colobus learning to jump tree branches, under the concerned but vigilant eyes of his parents.

Colobus Monkeys

According to African Parks’ official information page, in Nyungwe NP over 6,000 community members and local leaders have been reached and engaged in community environmental awareness meetings. And in 2021 alone, 1,000 children visited the park.

On top of that, according to African Parks, 15 local guides have been trained to deliver the park’s tourism activities, thanks to a community freelance guiding project.

The Ranger that guided us points into the wilderness

Elisa on a Canopy Walk

Gorillas of the Volcano National Park

An important aspect of conservation in Rwanda is the protection of the wildlife, in particular of the mountain gorillas, whose world population and efforts for protection, the country shares with neighbouring Uganda and Congo.

Although the mountain gorilla is still considered an endangered species, according to the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGFI), the overall world population in the Virunga mountains rose from 480 individuals in 2010 to 604 in 2016, and has currently reached 1,063 individuals.

Tourism has always played a key role in conservation efforts and following the successful examples of other pioneers of this model, such as Botswana, tourism in Rwanda has invested in a low-volume and high-yield approach, focusing primarily on high-end visitors.

This approach was intensified in 2017 by the decision to double the cost of permits to visit the gorillas from $750 to $1,500. This bold decision seems to have paid off and tourism is, overall, a growing sector. In fact, according to RDB official sources, Rwanda’s tourism revenues increased by 25% from $131 million in 2020 to $164 million in 2021, despite the COVID-19 pandemic.

Celebrating Wildlife

The Kwita Izina, the baby gorilla naming ceremony, is the annual celebration of all those efforts and the grandiosity of it proves the importance that conservation has in the country, as well as the trust and recognition that Rwanda has gained on an international level.

As every year, on 2nd September, many public figures and world celebrities – footballers, philanthropists, singers, sports champions, social entrepreneurs – were invited to name the 20 baby mountain gorillas born in the Volcanoes NP over the last year.

The then Prince Charles, now King Charles, was one of the well-known figures who was invited to choose a name for one of the recently born gorillas. The name he chose, Ubwuzuzanye – which is the Kinyarwanda for ‘Harmony’ – he wanted to serve as a reminder of the fact that ‘restoring harmony and balance between nature, people and the planet is the most critical issue facing humanity’.

Thanks to an invitation from the RDB, I had the chance to join an international delegation of journalists and travel writers to follow this uplifting event from the first row. I was very close to the more than 50,000 participants and I absorbed all their enthusiasm while singing along with the slogan ‘conservation is life’, jumping up and passionately waving their event flags.

Volcanoes NP is the only Rwandan park where the Gorillas live and, due to a series of specific conditions, here the human–wildlife conflict is felt with more intensity. In any case, regardless of the differences, the country has developed a system that seems to represent the key to the successful management of issues that relate to the conservation and human interaction.

A Successful Model for Protecting Wildlife

In 2019 alone, Rwanda received 1.63 million visitors, while the National Parks counted more than 100,000 visitors and collected $28.9 million from park entries.

After having developed policy guidelines, the RDB has implemented Tourism Revenue Sharing (TRS), a programme that we believe represents one of the keys to the resolution of the human–wildlife conflict.

Thanks to the TRS scheme, 10% of all tourism revenue is now invested in the communities that live around the country’s national parks. In 2017, the revenue sharing was increased from 5% to 10% of gross tourism revenues earned by the RDB.

 Since 2005, when the scheme was introduced, the RDB has invested RWF 5.34 billion (equal to $5 million) into the communities around the national parks.

This has translated into the implementation of 698 community projects that RDB, counting on the support of the local governments, has developed and delivered to, and with, the local communities.
The projects have built schools, clinics, family houses and water systems and supported the improvement of agricultural production.

The vision of the TRS is to guarantee the sustainable conservation of the natural environment but not at the detriment of the neighbouring communities.

Among the TRS’ objectives is compensation for loss of access and/or crop damage due to wildlife activity. It also provides alternatives to the overuse of park resources, such as wood, and options for income-generating businesses, including encouraging Community-Based Tourism (CBT) enterprises.

Local communities seem to play an active role in the process.

They are not only compensated if they suffer any damage caused by wildlife, but they have also been given the tools to build a healthy relationship with the park itself. Education plays a crucial role obviously, especially with the younger generation, but so do the tangible opportunities to invest in sustainable economic alternatives and to demonstrate other respectful uses of the park, that are beneficial to all parties.

During this short but immersive experience, we have noticed that while community responsibility grows in Rwanda, community members are increasing their sense of ownership of the land and their resources.

If this is true, then conservation here is happening through a system that consciously empowers its community members as part of the process.

 Thanks Rwanda, for the inspiration!

Murakose Chane! 

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. She travelled to Uganda in September 2022. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

Culture & Ethnicity in Rwanda: A New Perspective

Strong links never fade! 

I was introduced to Rwandan traditional culture many times and in many forms in the month that I spent there, earlier this year. These included an official visit to the King’s palace in Nyanza, in the Southern province, which is part of the so-called ‘Cultural Heritage Corridor’ and also attending the Kwita Izina ceremony in Kinigi, in the Northern province, by assisting with the dances performed by the group of entertainers by the stage.

Here, as well as on several other occasions, I watched the traditional way of using the calabash – a type of gourd – to produce butter called Beurre Ikimuri in the local language. I temporarily memorised the names and forever recorded the shape of other traditional utensils presented to me on several occasions, in my photographic memory.

During Kwita Izina ceremony – Man drinking beer from calabash

Woman holding calabash for butter making

Culture is usually associated with tangible artefacts and we think it is mainly made up of objects, whose memory continues to live on, at our dinner tables or in a cabinet in a museum. However, it is also made of intangible elements, like a story, a melody or a dance.

At King’s Palace Museum, in Nyanza

The dance moves I observed, closely enough to be brushed by their excited feet, as I chomped at the bit while crouching with my lenses and taking pictures from ground level, reminded me immediately of the rhythmic dances I had been learning during the previous two weeks from Marie Louise and the other women at the Red Rocks Initiative in Musanze, during the Cultural Festival.

During Red Rocks Cultural Festival – Local dancers

Although the music at the ceremony was modern and electronic, while the other was traditional and manually performed, the similarities were unmistakable.

There was something else though, beyond the steps, that the group of young performers in the media area and the community women had in common: besides the presence of the many muzungu (white people), both groups sparkled with genuine joy and they seemed to perform for no one other than themselves. They were having fun!

During Kwita Izina ceremony – Entertainers

The curious Sicilian observer started following the steps, captivated by the enchanting rhythm, and felt that ancient bliss that speaks about old circles of family reunions and community gatherings that have never been forgotten but just adapted, over time, to new musical rhythms.

Unity vs Labelling

Among the many remarkable messages that I found on the wall of the genocide museum in Kigali, one struck me more than others.

It was a reflection on that ‘obsession with difference’, that has been instrumentally emphasised by the western colonisers, and that has led – for the first time in the country’s history – to the classification of its inhabitants into anthropological groups and to the appearance of their ethnic credentials on their personal ID.  

That labelling exercise highlights the differences between people, rather than the similarities, obviously creating divisions rather than encounters. That has been strongly denied after the atrocities, so that today the response screams loud – even on the roads.

United we stand!

And if while walking down the streets of Kigali city centre or while exploring the rural areas of this diversely beautiful country, close to its forests, lakes, or mountains, you suddenly and uncontrollably want to play that diminishing labelling game, please restrain yourself from that temptation.

There is no need to classify the beauty admired on a woman’s face or in the shape of a man’s eyes with a name. Instead of asking ‘which group do you belong to?’, ask them their Kinyarwanda name, so at least you will learn one or two new softly spoken and musical words – because their names are beautiful and usually have kind and uplifting meanings.

This will certainly be a better way to interact on a more human, rather than ethnic and limiting, level.

Red Rocks Cultural Festival 2022 – Women from the local cooperatives

Too many impactful stories to tell

In Rwanda I found many more wonders and heart-warming surprises than one single article can contain. I found the feeling of a new country, enriched by a vivid conscience of the past, standing strongly and sturdily on its legs with fresh energy, and curiously open to the world.

Its energy is young and inclined to create space for innovation in many areas, including art and creativity. In fact, many are the local art galleries you can find around the streets of Kigali, like Inshuti . In these places, talented artists are usually prompt to invest in their ability and entrepreneurial dreams – here new generations of artists are encouraged to enjoy and perhaps pursue that path. In other examples, the relevant social work done in the community is embedded in each artwork, as in the case of the work done by a pair of local artists at Ikirunga Art Centre, in Kinigi, who consciously use art as a vehicle to empower disadvantaged and marginalised children that live in their premises.

Ikirunga Art Centre – Cleff showing his young student’s artwork

Around this small but mighty country, I encountered inspiring stories of women empowerment, arts, creativity, cultural preservation and responsible tourism, like in the case of Nyamirambo Women’s Centre in the capital Kigali, or the Urugo project in Kayonza district.

Nyamirambo Women Centre – local women working and tourists visiting during the walking tour

After two years of virtual meetings and chats, I have finally met Pauline, Bertha, Marie Louise  and the other women of the cooperatives at the Red Rocks Initiative in Musanze. There, I discovered the impressive multi-layered work that the historical and well-established local NGO is doing to link community empowerment, environmental conservation and sustainable development through tourism and cultural activities.

Women4Women – Urugo project - Local dancers welcoming visitors

Red Rocks Tree planting Initiative – Marie Louise and other local women preparing to plant trees by the river

The Next Chapter: The Conservation Efforts

Springing from lots of places, many stories have called for my attention, and I will certainly share them with plenty of details in the future.But for now, I would like to continue with a different chapter of my Rwandan adventure: my visit to the country’s national parks.

Nyungwe Forest National Park

After completing the Igishigishigi Trail in Nyungwe Forest NP

During those days in the wildness, I learnt about Rwanda’s impressive conservation efforts, and had the chance to encounter people, ask questions, and see some of the results and the effects of that work on the local communities as well.

My exploration of the national parks followed a clockwise circle, starting east from the capital. However, I would like to begin by talking about the youngest of them all and then move on to my more immersive experiences on the ground – and in the mud.

A Critical Sector

‘Tourism plays a major role in the country’s economy, contributing 10 per cent to the GDP and 8 per cent to “off-farm” employment’, says Eugene Mutangana, the Conservation Management Expert at the Rwanda Development Board (RDB), in an interview in 2020.

With this important position in mind, it would be interesting to see what has been achieved through it and how Rwanda is becoming a global leader in conservation through tourism.
It is worth remembering that national parks cover almost 9% of the whole country, one of the most densely populated in Africa, and they represent a great attraction for international tourists thanks to their biodiversity.

Akagera National Park

Managing these areas correctly is particularly critical considering that the human–wildlife conflict is a real situation, which endangers not only the natural environment and the animals that depend on it, but also the life of the community members that live so closely to them.

Tourism has been actively used to find new, alternative solutions for the sustainable development of the country, and the Rwandan model of conservation has shown good results and has proven that it is possible to achieve economic development through the protection of the natural ecosystems.

The Last Entry

Gishwati-Mukura NP is one of the most recent examples of national conservation efforts. Located in the north-western region, near Lake Kivu, the rainforest, once rich in biodiversity, has been highly affected by deforestation, soil erosion and landslides and it has already lost almost 98% of its original area, due to decades of illegal mining, forest clearing, cattle ranching and encroachment.

Gishwati-Mukura National Park Head Quarter

Gishwati’s trees (Photo credit: Dana Allen)

In 2015, the territory joined volcanoes Akagera and Nyungwe and became the fourth Rwandan national park, which officially opened to tourism in 2020, the same year in which it was also recognised as a UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve.

The intense work of restoration, though, started a long time ago in 2004, thanks to national and international collaborations. The National Park has 60 species of tree, including indigenous hardwoods and bamboo, and is divided in two parts, covering a total area of 34 square km, plus a buffer zone. Gishwati is home to chimpanzees and to golden, L’Hoest’s and blue monkeys. 232 species of birds also live in this side of the forest and 163 in the Mukura area.

To visit the forest, explore the nature walks and visit the waterfall, it is necessary to stay overnight. Today, the Forest of Hope Association (FHA) (a Rwandan NGO established in 2012 to continue working on conservation), in collaboration with RDB  and with the support and expertise of Wilderness Safaris, manages the new Guest House and Camp Site accommodation available to visitors. It aims to also attract domestic tourists, beyond the traditional high-end market that visits the country.

Chimpanzee at Gishwati-Mukura National (Photo credits: Hein Myers)

As well as the hiking, the bird watching and natural walks, tourists can also take part in a series of community activities which include cultural dance performances, handicraft workshops, beekeeping, tea plantation tours, and a meeting with traditional healers: a treasure chest of the knowledge contained in plants and herbs.

Visiting the recently born Rwandan national park will not only benefit the ecosystem and the wildlife present there, but will also represent an important contribution to the 46 villages that surround it. This is not just because of the community activities offered to the tourists, but also thanks to the general Rwandan response to, and long-term strategy towards, conservation. In fact, there is a system in place that aims to mitigate, and virtually neutralise, the community–conservation conflict and create new economic opportunities.

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Gishwati-Mukura NP is the most recent example of Rwanda’s approach to tourism and its role in conservation. This is also the only one that I have observed from afar, having only visited the headquarters and hearing its story from their rangers, without a personal stay or a full immersion in its wildlife, yet. I hope to have the chance during my next visit to participate in the chimpanzee habituation programme that the park is developing and to see some of the peculiar bird species that populate its trees, while trekking towards Kazeneza waterfall.

The results achieved so far, in terms of environmental protection, have been inspiring here and I would like to follow their progress over time – but most of all, I would love to get to know the community tourism products and to experience the new activities they have recently started to offer.

Leaving Gishwati-Mukura National Park Head Quarter

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In the next part of this article, I will share my first-hand experiences of the local wildlife and the great achievements I witnessed in the other Rwandan national parks that I visited last September, which will demonstrate the other elements of this winning strategy, particularly from the community perspective.

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato, unless otherwise shown)