Copenhagen Canal Quayside

What a privilege to visit Copenhagen. I hadn't discovered a new city since 2019 and when you are in my industry, that's quite a long time. The joy of packing the suitcase and heading off to investigate a new country filled me with such joy. A flight to Copenhagen is super quick with a very straight forward transfer from the Danish airport to the city centre. A civilized flight mid morning allowed us to be in the city mid afternoon with time to jump on some bikes and adventure around.  Our base for the next couple of days was the iconic hotel D’Angleterre - a beauty of a property if I have ever seen one. Central, grand, homely, not stuffy - its staff oozed welcome with friendly engaging smiles and caring attitudes - oh and I should add home to the Michelin star restaurant Marchal.  

Karen outside the Hotel D’Angleterre, Copenhagen

Photo by Febiyan

I had been curious to visit Copenhagen and Denmark overall - my knowledge of the country was somewhat limited - think Lego, Carlsberg lager and the Nordi series on Netflix The Bridge!! I love a Scandi thriller! Incidentally that bridge, over 8 kms long, links Denmark to Sweden allowing many Swedes and Danes easy access to live and work in both countries. Back to my curiosity of the country - I had heard good things about the Danes and their way of life, their attitude to community and happiness. You are probably well acquainted by the term Hygge - meaning connection, coziness and enjoying the simple pleasures of life with those you love.

The City of Happiness

Did you know that there is the Research Institute of Happiness headed up by Meik Wiking? The organization is an independent think tank exploring why some societies are happier than others. Their mission is to inform decision makers of the causes and effects of human happiness, making well-being part of the public policy debate, and improving quality of life for everyone on the planet. They partner with cities, governments and organisations to set the agenda to improve quality of life. With so much care in a society it’s obvious that its citizens would find suitable ways to look after their environment too, which is reflected in their living choices and behaviour - the Danes are leading in sustainability especially with building infrastructure and how it affects their environment. Another fun fact I learnt is the new cable, 760kms long - yes you read that correctly (the world's longest high voltage cable) is being laid under the sea between Denmark and the UK which is going to supply us with renewable energy from the Danes wind farms  - how cool is that? A great scheme that will help the environment and help us Brits come away from fossil fuels.

Karen in Christianhavn

Copenhagen really is a beautiful city -  full of eco-friendly buildings using renewable energy initiatives - green roofing, solar, rainwater harvesting systems, urban gardens and green space galore. I thought most novel is the waste plant which has a secondary function of offering a ski slope - a truly innovative and pioneering idea. On the subject of cleaner living - did you know that 9 out of 10 Danes own a bicycle? And 26% of families living with two children in the city of Copenhagen own a cargo bike. Londoner’s - we could do so much better than we do and take a leaf out of the Copenhagener’s book and come away from our dirty polluting cars.

The Hotel D’Angleterre offers their guests bikes for free so it was a pleasure to pedal off and meander around the city on the generously wide bike lanes. One unique cycle super highway crosses the canal. We had to wait as the bridge closed for the cyclists and was raised in order to let a tall ship pass along the canal. It was an awesome sight! 

The bicycle super highways of Copenhagen, by Aurora Ferreira

What else are the Danes doing right, you may ask - well free education for students, free health care, low criminality and a general good work/life balance. It's that feeling of Hygge again. So with the backdrop of understanding why Denmark had drawn me in, let me highlight a few experiences I tried when in the capital of happiness. 

I biked to the picturesque district of Christianshavn. An idyllic place to immerse yourself in the pretty and colourful neighbourhood which is made up of small islands.

The beautiful canals of Copenhagen

I participated in a sea plane excursion, boarding close to the Little Mermaid - it was a 20 minute excursion over the harbour, allowing fantastic views of Copenhagen and beyond. The sea plane excursion with Nordic Seaplanes was followed by a boat ride with Hey Captain- a more intimate boat excursion where you can talk with the captain offering a very personal way to cruise the canals.

Photo by Rolands Varsbergs

100% take a  guided food tour. Danish food wasn't particularly known globally until a new wave of chefs brought restaurants like Noma into international attention. Joining a Food Tour Copenhagen you’ll meet the  locals and be given local insight. There is so much diversity in Copenhagen’s food scene.   In 2021 14 of Copenhagen's restaurants had 23 Micheln stars between them!  I was fortunate to visit La Glace - the oldest patisserie in Denmark, Aamanns 1921 a famous Danish restaurant and the food markets at Tovehallerne.

Time in Copenhagen would not be complete without a visit to Tivoil Gardens, the oldest theme park in the world. 

My last evening was spent at the Balthazar champagne bar where they are renowned for their signature champagne cocktails - I had a Downton Abbey - very in keeping with the release of the new Downton Abbey movie recently released!

Swimming at Islands Brugge, Copenhagen

Swimming at Islands Brugge, Copenhagen

I could have done with a few more hours in this glorious capital - my last morning I headed to the area called Islands Brygge - which translates as Iceland’s Quay - a gorgeous stretch of waterfront where outdoor bathing and swimmers gather all year round. It was a magical experience for me.

 Karen travelled in April 2022 to Copenhagen in the company of Flospitality and stayed at D'Angleterre Hotel.  

It’s a vital migration highway that follows the Cocos Ridge connecting the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador with Cocos island, Costa Rica. One of our Make Travel Matter charity partners, Galapagos Conservation Trust (GCT) has been supporting the creation of the proposed Galapagos-Cocos Swimway protected area since 2018, by helping their science partners gather important evidence needed to drive forward the creation of this 240,000 km2 route, which is critical for conserving endangered Galapagos marine species.

Photo credit to Migramar

This May saw the launch of the 2021 Galapagos-Cocos Swimway expedition. It has an expert team of scientists gathering evidence to support the protection of this vital Swimway. They started in Costa Rica, travelled down to Cocos Island National Park and down the Swimway to the Galapagos Islands. Alongside this, GCT are running a virtual Swimway Challenge which is encouraging people to walk, run, swim, cycle or wheelchair the length of the Swimway whilst raising awareness and funds. We are signed up! 700 miles of swimming, (mostly) and cycling + walking. You can give here if you feel inclined!

The Galapagos Islands offer an enriching, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see various animals and marine life in their natural habitats. We send clients to the Islands, which were studied by Charles Darwin and inspired him with his Theory of Evolution, as well as visiting Ecuador.  This image below though shows a different story, right?

Photo credit to Fu Yuan Yu Leng 999 in 2017 Galapagos National Park

The Galapagos Conservation Trust is one of our charity partners. As part of our Make Travel Matter campaign, we have supported them in various ways. Travel Matters have accepted the challenge and created a team for the Virtual Swimway. I am an avid fan of open water swimming and despite not being able to be in the Galapagos to support this project, I believe we can create more awareness about this crucial passage for the protection of the marine life. You can follow here on our fundraising page and support the team members who are swimming, walking and cycling the equivalent distance of 700 miles. I am making the most of my membership to the UK’s largest outdoor swimming pool - the Tooting Lido. Currently 13 degrees water temperature, you can’t stay in long but I’m totalling up the lengths with my team mates! My other team members are using Brockwell Lido and Charlton Lido - both in London. Please do support us if you can!

Tooting Lido, London - where most of my swimming is taking place.

Tourism is the largest employer on the Galapagos Islands making up over 80% of the economy. In 2019, over 270,000 people visited Galapagos. In 2020, this dropped to 72,000 – a massive 73% decline. Vital scientific research will be severely impacted because of the decline. The Galapagos Islands is a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. It's considered one of the world's foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing. The incredible diversity of wildlife found in Galapagos is what makes this volcanic archipelago so very special.

We hope when international travel resumes safely from the UK and when people consider travelling to this breathtaking natural region of the world, that they will enquire about possible ways to support this vital work for generations to come.

And just to remind you, we are supporters of the Future of Tourism coalition, who’s Guiding Principles provide a clear moral and business imperative for building a healthier tourism industry while protecting the places and people on which it depends. Our participation of the Swimway Challenge is one clear demonstration of these principles.

Future of Tourism supporter

This guest blog was written by Tricia Barnett, Director of Equality in Tourism.

Equality in Tourism believes tourism should be fairer for women. We are a charity working to put gender on the agenda of global tourism. We want women all over the world to enjoy equal benefits of tourism, because in general they don’t. It’s not at all unusual for women to be working at the in the least well paid jobs with little opportunities for training. For example, a housekeeper in an award winning eco hotel in a country like Sri Lanka or Kenya might just earn £1 a day. She also might be struggling with a split shift, which means she hardly gets to see her children. But there are all sorts of ways that women can benefit from tourism and it’s so normal to see women selling their handicrafts or opening their homes for visitors to stay. For many of these women, tourism has been empowering.

Women farmers in Tanzania

But there are also people who live in successful tourism destinations who live in a parallel universe and have no idea how they might benefit from the visitors who are in a separate bubble. Equality in Tourism has our own path breaking project in the Kilimanjaro region of Tanzania. So many people come to climb the iconic mountain, but all around are impoverished families living a subsistence life. Many of these are farmers, and in Tanzania as elsewhere in the world, it is women who are the farmers. 

Four years ago we began work with a local women’s empowerment organisation, KWIECO ww.kwieco.com 

to train the most marginalised farming women in better farming methods, farming as a business, entrepreneurship and women’s empowerment. The objective was to help them create a co-operative which would supply the many local hotels and lodges with quality fruit and vegetables. Before training, they competed with each other in the market place to sell their produce to dealers. Prices were very low. So low, that when we first began work with the women and started a microfinance scheme, some couldn’t even save 30 pence.

Our business plan showed that the co-operative, Wamboma: Women Farming for Their Future, would be self sufficient in three years. They opened a shop. But then climate change created floods and drought that destroyed three crops. We raised money and now they have industrial sized greenhouses, drip irrigation, tanks and pumps. 

We were back on our feet. Until Covid-19 closed all the hotels and tourism came to a halt. 

We have always operated on a shoestring. But now we are stuck. The women are back in the market place and not getting the cost of their labour back as they sell at low prices once again. Having saved brilliantly and made use of their loans to send their children to university or buy a sowing machine or improve their farms, they can no longer save. What is such an important asset though, is that they have, for the first time in their lives, food security. 

We have had to think on our feet and the women would like to be trained to dry their produce and – a very western suggestion – to create farm boxes. All of this needs investment for training and equipment and a website, so we need to fundraise again. 

The results have been life changing. We would love to take the learning and share it elsewhere where women farm and tourism is a key industry.

Tricia at a weekly meeting in Namwai

The women, who were the most marginalised in their communities, are now sought out for their advice. They are managing the shop and their savings and their production. They are working together. They are challenging their men to support them better and are being supported to fight against gender based violence that has been rampant. It is quite wonderful to hear from the women how the project has changed their lives. Before the pandemic, a big adventure operator was organising for their tours to come to the villages and meet the women and see what they’ve achieved and to buy their produce. 

One day, perhaps you will be able to as well. You would be very welcome. 

Tricia Barnett 

www.equalityintourism.org 

Director 

Equality in Tourism