I’m sitting on my towel in the sauna at the Alpiana hotel in the beautiful South Tyrol. Its Aufguss world championships and our Aufguss facilitator, Patricia, is a Slovakian who has chosen some beautiful music to perform to.

When I first experienced Aufguss, I was amazed by how it engaged all my senses. This unique sauna ritual lasts about 15 minutes, but it feels like a complete journey. The Aufguss master, with practiced skill, uses water and a towel to move the heat around the sauna, creating an ever-changing atmosphere.

There are six elements that make each session special.

• Heat: The temperature rises until I can feel my heart getting faster and a rush of endorphins flood my body, leaving me both energized and relaxed.

• Essential oils: The air fills with wonderful scents, each chosen for their unique benefits, and I find myself breathing more deeply.

• Towel work: Watching the master’s graceful towel movements is almost hypnotic—there’s a real artistry to it that I never expected.

• Lighting and ambience: The sauna can be bathed in soft natural light, other times in dramatic colours, each setting a different mood.

• Music: The towel’s movements are perfectly timed to the music, turning the whole experience into a performance that I feel very privileged to witness.

• Style: Ultimately, it’s the Aufguss master’s personal touch that brings everything together, guiding us through a ritual that feels both communal and deeply individual.

Every time I took part, I was reminded how powerful these simple elements can be when combined with care and intention. It’s more than just a sauna—it’s a moment of connection, relaxation, and sensory delight.

As sauna participants settle in, some closing their eyes, others simply listening as Patricia begins her performance. With practiced movements, she wafts the hot air using a small towel, synchronizing each gesture with the music. Nearby, a wooden bucket holds three ice balls, each infused with a different essential oil. Patricia uses a large ladle to place the ice balls onto the heated plates, releasing waves of bergamot, rosemary, and citrus into the air. The aroma mingles with the music, creating a truly immersive atmosphere.

My last Alpiana Aufguss session, aptly named “Taste of Summer,” is a sensory delight. I find myself smiling, fully absorbed in the harmonious blend of sound and scent. The air circulates just enough to keep me comfortable throughout, allowing me to enjoy the experience from start to finish.

As the session ends, I step into the iced water dipping pool, feeling instantly refreshed. Afterwards, we gather for Farmers Tea, a fragrant blend served with fresh fruit—a perfect conclusion to our shared ritual.

Discovering that the Alpiana and other Dolce Vita Hotels in the region offer this unique ritual to their guests made the experience all the more memorable. Trust me, you will want to try it!

There are many activities on offer at the Alpiana as well as sauna and cold dips. There is a weekly programme for guests – morning hikes, yoga, Pilates, chestnut roasting, meditation, and aqua gym – the list goes on….

There are guided walks as well as cycle paths to wander along. The countryside was a welcome respite from the busy city I live in. I enjoyed exploring the locality - chestnut groves, apple orchards, churches, and forests - a mixture of culture and nature. Just breathing in the fresh air made me feel so good.

Fun fact, I learnt that South Tyrol is the largest supplier of organic apples in the whole EU: some 25 % of all of the organic apples grown in Europe originate from South Tyrol.

Staying at the Alpiana, with its choice of outdoor pools, (for those who know me) will understand that I was in my element – cold water immersion, swims, followed by sauna. The hotel has a wonderful spa too, offering treatments to guests. The restaurant offers culinary delights – headed by chef Arnold Nussbaumer. Dishes are served by the team who are extremely attentive and professional. I loved the fusion of Tyrolean and Italian dishes.

The Alpiana is the perfect place for a retreat. The staff are incredibly friendly with the Margesin family actively working within the property. Would I return? In a heartbeat.

 Karen stayed at the Alpiana in South Tyrol in November 2025 courtesy of Dolce Vita Hotels.  Please email or call us on Tel 0208 675 7878 to discuss your stay. We will share ideas of getting there and combining a break with other places.   

Images credit to Dolce Vita Hotels & Karen Simmonds

Many of you who know me personally will understand that I am obsessed with the healing qualities of water, especially the cold water. Having swum at Tooting Bec lido for the last 14 years throughout the winter months as well as the summer, I am convinced of the healing benefits of cold water. I created retreats by a Scottish Loch so I could share my passion of the water with others. This pastime has opened new doors for me, I have become a swim ambassador and volunteer for Mental Health Swims, I qualified as an open water lifeguard and more importantly I have made some new friendships from the global cold water swimming community.

Karen at the Guinness World Record attempt for under ice swimming in Norway

Amber Fillary is one of those new connections for me. Amber is an individual who too, understands the benefits of the cold water for wellbeing. As a recovered addict and someone who suffered with mental health issues, she is now a motivational speaker who too, wants to share her love for the healing qualities the cold water brings. In autumn 2023, we are partnering together to organise another retreat in Scotland. Amber is also a free diver (don’t try this at home!) and was attempting to break her own Guinness World Record on swimming under ice in a single breathe for over 100 metres. The attempt was in Norway this March.

The river at Kongsberg, Norway

I travelled to Norway to watch her. I flew with Norse Air, a new airline that offers affordable fares on long-haul flights, primarily between Europe and the United States. It has a service to New York from London via Oslo. From Oslo, I headed to Kongsberg by train. There is a train station directly at the airport for ease and an hourly train service to Kongsberg. The town of Kongsberg was very close to being the capital of Norway in the 17th century due to their wealth from the silver they mined. These days, it’s a small town of just over 26,000, lying on the mighty river Numedalslågen.

Amber Fillary by the ice hole, Norway

Amber’s attempted free dive took place just outside of Kongsberg in a lake. With ice holes dug out set 10 metres apart, the ice was over 50 cms in depth. There were scuba divers under the water and judges above as well as below the frozen lake. Sadly, due to a bad infected cut on her knee, which had got worse by the hour with swelling on her shin too, her body was unable to achieve her record attempt. Being under the water for over 3 minutes on a single breath whilst dealing with an infection meant that despite having trained and achieved the distance in the days before, her attempt did not  qualify for the officials. It was disappointing for her. The Guinness World Records are not easy and this extreme sport is dangerous. She is determind to secure her own record and will return to the lake in twelve months to attempt the record again.

After my time in Kongsberg, I returned to Oslo. I had several hours looking around the city by foot. Must see attractions are the harbour, the Akershus Fortress which is a medieval castle built to protect and provide a royal residence for the city, and the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace in Oslo was built in the first half of the 19th century as the Norwegian residence of the French-born King Charles III John, who reigned as king of Norway and Sweden.

Opera House Oslo, Norway

Oslo has several ski fields around the city. Climbing hills in Norway is a natural thing to do. This seems to apply to a very special building too. The city’s iconic Opera House. You must climb the Opera House roof. Climb for amazing views of the fjord archipelago with small, traditional wooden summer houses. You get a great view of the saunas alongside the waterfront with cold water bathers enjoying a sauna experience with a cold dip in the icy waters of the fjord.

Saunas by the waterfront in Oslo Norway

I caught the 81 bus from Oslo centre to head to my final destination, a hotel that specialises in wellness. The Well is a all singing, all dancing Spa hotel. You can join in the spa rituals for a unique and exciting wellness experience. I participated in the magical sauna rituals, hot and cold baths, and felt the community with others. This can give you a real mood boost and strengthen your body and mind!

 With saunas, hammans, jacuzzis, pools – inside and outside, I could not think of a better place to unwind, to relax and become quite zen- like after the emotional rollercoaster of a weekend. I spent an hour or two dipping in and out of water and heating up my core again in a sauna before chilling off in the cold water. The Well attracts many locals who come to enjoy the spa, however the hotel has hotel rooms for guests wanting to stay overnight. The brasserie serves delicious meals where you can dine in your bath robe – no need to get dressed.  Their Signature rooms have large windows that let in both generous amounts of light, the clean air and the sounds of the forest.

Oslo fjord, Norway

Before you head to Oslo, I recommend downloading the app Ruter on your phone for easy access on the public buses and trams. Norway is a magical country to visit. I didn’t raise my expectations for a sighting of the Northern Lights – best to consider a Northern Lights sighting as an added bonus and not go in search of them. The countryside is naturally so beautiful this time of year– snow laden trees in frozen landscapes. When the sun shone, it is extremely white all around from the snow’s brightness. Don’t forget to pack sunglasses as well as thermals, a hat and gloves.

Karen travelled to Oslo and Kongsberg in Norway to support Amber Fillary – twice Guinness World Record holder for Apnea Swimming.